Feature
By Danielle Reckless
It's one of the most rare and magical underwater encounters in the world - and just a few hundred people get the opportunity each year to experience it. Right here in Queensland.
We're of course talking about the dwarf minke whale, among the most elusive mammals on earth. Discovered only 40 years ago in the waters of the outer Great Barrier Reef, these creatures continue to excite scientists as they return to our neck of the woods each winter - the only known place in the world where they predictably meet.
If you're hoping to jump in and experience this unusual meeting yourself, read on.
The dwarf minke whale was first recorded in 1981 by Queenslander Rob Prettejohn, after he dismissed the finned creature he spotted as an orca and then plunged into the waters of the Great Barrier Reef to document his first encounter.
Rob’s precision drawings, (above), along with field notes, were sent to the Curator of Mammals at Queensland Museum asking what it was. Soon after a new whale species, now known as the dwarf minke whale (though they can weigh up to six tonnes) was documented, and swimming with them has become one of the most elusive yet sought after nature experiences in the world.
Today, divers from around the world make their way to the remote Ribbon Reefs off Cooktown between May and August for a chance encounter. And Rob? He's continuing his passion for protecting Queensland's environment as the owner of Thala Beach Nature Reserve near Port Douglas.
For just a few weeks a year, a handful of tourism operators open their liveaboards to this relatively new natural encounter. There are strict guidelines in place for swimming with dwarf minke whales to ensure that these interactions are sustainable. The combined conservation efforts of the operators and visitors are important to the continuation of the whales making their annual journey through the Great Barrier Reef - and you can help be part of the research on your visit.
Be sure to book early as just four operators host liveaboard dive trips from Cairns that offer the chance to swim with these whales.
Whichever boat you choose, you'll be well-looked after by a passionate crew, and enjoy science-led education and research along the way.
New to liveaboard diving? Here's everything you need to know.
Mike Ball's 3-day, 10-dive expeditions is one of the most popular ways to explore the reef and meet dwarf minke whales along the way. Let's take a closer look.
A dive expedition doesn’t get better than starting with an eye-popping, low-flying joy flight over the world’s greatest reef system from Cairns to Lizard Island, where a dinghy waits to squirrel you away to Spoilsport and an incredible buffet of food.
Settle into your home for the next three nights: the standard cabins come with comfortable metre-wide single beds, plenty of drawer space, a tight but functional bathroom, and the most delicious meals, served five times a day.
The action starts straight away, with three dives today.
Dive sites depend on the conditions on the day, but you'll probably begin at The Cod Hole. Descend to meet blue and yellow acrobatic fish that toss and tumble against a backdrop of hydrangea-coloured corals, while giant potato cod - a member of Queensland's Great Eight - meander by.
You'll get the opportunity for two more dives today, including a night dive.
Today's itinerary offers the opportunity for four dives plus a night dive - and hopefully an encounter or two with some minkes.
Lighthouse Bommie is a dive not to miss on the Ribbon Reefs: a 20-metre giant coral tower populated by the most vibrant marine life. Lionfish, sweetlip, parrot fish and trevally circle around in a flurry of activity that'll leave you spellbound.
While nature offers no guarantee, the odds are that if you're here on the Ribbon Reefs at the right time, magic happens. It’s a known playground of the dwarf minke whales – for just six weeks a year – and you'll be among the fortunate few hoping to tick an encounter with one off your bucket list.
It’s been 10 years since the dive industry banded with researchers to lobby for tourists to swim with the minkes although Richard Fitzpatrick, a Cairns-based marine biologist and an Emmy-award-winning filmmaker is adamant it’s not “whale watching”, but “people watching”. The minkes are in control, he says, and they decide if they want to swim into the declared 100-metre radius. Or not.
In the last six years, minke whale researchers have recorded some 1500 hours of minke encounters, most around the Lighthouse Bommie with the average encounter lasting 84 minutes.
It’s ethereal. It’s effortless. It’s out of this world. And it’s a very private encounter.
An average interaction consists of 2 – 3 whales for approximately 90 minutes. The largest minke pod seen was 28 whales, the longest encounter 10 hours. However, minke whales are wild animals and can be unpredictable; so enjoy every moment.
There's plenty more diving on the schedule today, with up to three dives on the cards. Don't worry if you're a novice diver or just getting a little tired from all the adventure - one of the best things about liveaboard dive trips is if you're not feeling up to a dive, you can kick back and relax on deck instead, soaking up Great Barrier Reef views.
The final day of diving calls for a descent to one of the world's best dives sites: Steve's Bommie. Far outside the reach of diving day trips, this remote spot is all for you. Starting at 33 metres and almost breaching the surface at 3 metres, it's a dream for macro photography and big fish spotting, with lionfish, reef sharks, stonefish and nudibranchs among the marine life to encounter.
As the sun sets on your last night on board Spoilsport, grab a glass of bubbly and get ready for a BBQ party night - your fiercest tropical print is invited too. Cruise back to Cairns overnight, where there's plenty more to explore on dry land.
Where to from here? This incredible marine encounter might inspire another. You can swap minkes for mighty humpacks with whale watching and swim-with-whale experiences at Hervey Bay and the Sunshine Coast.