Road Trip
By Danielle Reckless
An untold adventure waiting to be discovered. The Savannah Way road trip – Australia’s longest and arguably most fascinating route – stretches 3700km from Cairns to Broome. It's a huge undertaking, but can be uncovered in a number of legs or shorter sections. With one week up your sleeve, you can tackle Queensland's portion of the Savannah Way: exploring outback towns, national parks, ancient hot springs and World Heritage wonders as you wind your way from the coast through red dirt country and Gulf Savannah.
There’s plenty to be said for the landmarks you’ll be a part of on this journey, but the front row seats to windscreen views are special in themselves. As are the stories you'll collect along the way.
Get things started with this seven day guide to driving Savannah Way.
Please note, recent flooding events may still be impacting the Gulf of Carpentaria. Please check the Queensland traffic road reports and operator information before travelling.
Head west from Cairns, winding your way up through the Kuranda Range towards the cane fields, macadamia plantations and mango orchards that this strech of Queensland is known for. You'll quickly fall under the spell of the Atherton Tableland's beauty. If you got an early start today, you'll be happy to discover this area is also known for its coffee plantation, so stop for a cuppa at Skybury Cafe and Roastery, where you can take in the views while sipping freshly roasted brews.
A little further along the road is Millstream Falls, one of the widest single-drop waterfalls in Australia. Stretch your legs along walking track that leads to the lookout for the best views.
With a couple of pit stops and driving breaks, you’ll be at Undara just in time to join a guided tour of the area. Undara Volcanic National Park is home to world’s longest lava tube system and Undara Experience offers a range of tours through the caves, including sunset wildlife spotting (the lava tubes are home to colonies of microbats).
The more of Queensland you see, the more you come to realise how many of its offerings rely on passionate, engrained families that thrive off the support of curious travellers. They radiate pride in land and are excited, time and time again, to help you uncover something new. The Undara Experience is just that, run by the Collins family since settlement in 1862.
The more of Queensland you see, the more you come to realise how many of its offerings rely on passionate, engrained families that thrive off the support of curious travellers. They radiate pride in land and are excited, time and time again, to help you uncover something new. The Undara Experience is just that, run by the Collins family since settlement in 1862.
A collection of incredibly dramatic, ancient caves and formations to explore, coupled with eleven decommissioned railway carriages to call home for the evening. It’s eco-accommodation at its most personal, where each guest can experience the outback in comfort. The experience is particularly acclaimed for providing mobility alternatives to their tours and accommodation, so that the lava tubes, caves and quirky carriages can be enjoyed by all abilities and generations. There’s also camping, an onsite restaurant, and bar within the property, where you can participate in their famed morning ‘bush breakfast’ for a true taste of the outback.
True to its name, Mount Surprise has plenty of surprises in store, from fossicking to soaking in ancient hot springs.
If you have plenty of time and have the patience for a few hours of fossicking for gems, make your way to O’Briens Creek - a great spot for rookies and families around 45km from town. This area is well-known for gem-quality topaz, attracting visitors from all over Australia and overseas. Just like paddock to plate, gem to jewellery is equally as satisfying, and one of the few allowances where you can borrow a natural souvenir from the land.
Another natural gem to uncover is nearby Talaroo Hot Springs: a place where you can soak, while soaking in culture. Australia’s only known tiered thermal hot spring, the landscapes here are estimated to be 65 million years old - so this has got to be one of the most fascinating ways to appreciate history, under the guide of Ewamian Traditional Owners.
Take a guided tour and book a private soaking session for the full experience. But don't rush off: Talaroo offers a caravan park and campground, so you can stick around to watch sunset dip into a starry night, joining fellow travellers and your Indigenous hosts for the nightly Yarning Circle.
Wake to the sounds of local bird calls as morning breaks at Talaroo, pack the car and hit the road to Georgetown. The town's TerrEstrial Visitor Information Centre is an interesting pit-stop, home to the Ted Elliott Mineral Collection which showcases over 4500 minerals, gems, crystals and fossils from Queensland and around the world.
Hungry? Not far down the road is Forsayth’s Goldfields Hotel - a beloved spot that's been awarded the ‘Best Outback Pub in Queensland’ numerous times. This is your chance for a hearty meal - and the last place to get fuel before farewelling the bitumen and driving the hour further on unsealed road to Cobbold Gorge.
Arriving at Cobbold Gorge has to be a highlight of driving Savannah Way. A hidden outback oasis, towering sandstone drops into a winding waterway, and is home to rare and thriving wildlife, especially native birds.
In order to protect this unique environment, access to Cobbold Gorge is by guided tour only - but there are nearly endless ways to explore. Join a walking tour to trace your way along the escarpment and get a bird's eye view of the gorge from the glass bridge. Or take things to new heights on a scenic heli tour over Cobbold Gorge and Newcastle Ranges - the best way to appreciate the awe-inspiring scale of this landscape.
Want to connect at a closer level? Take to the water on stand-up-paddleboard or electric-motored small boat cruise - a peaceful way to see the sights while minimising disruption of natural habitats.
With cabins, a campground and dining on site, Cobbold Gorge is a fantastic overnight stop before continuing further along Savannah Way.
If you can't seem to tear yourself away from the magic, here's how to spend 48 hours at Cobbold Gorge.
The true beauty of the Outback is that the smallest, blink-and-you’ll-miss-it type stops can be some of the most special - so while you're driving Savannah Way, take advantage of the tiny, quirky treasures you come across as you travel.
Case in point: the old gold mining town of Croydon. A small town with a big history, most of which kicked off after gold was discovered here in 1885. It's around three hours' drive from Cobbold Gorge but thanks to its kangaroo sculptures and ‘true blue’ visitors centre full of relics, and mining museum, it's a worthy rest stop before forging on to Normanton.
On first glance, Normanton seems to be most famous for its purple pub and Gold Rush heritage. But it’s well worth stopping if only to ride the historic Gulflander train, a legend of the outback that was once said to travel ‘from nowhere to nowhere’ – which is exactly the kind of activity a winding Savannah Way road trip can accommodate. The old tin hare railmotor operates half-day trips between Normanton and Croydon through some spectacular country.
If you still have time up your sleeve today, stop to snap a photo with the Normanton Croc or get a fascinating history lesson at the Indigenous Stock Workers Display.
After yesterday's longer drive, take it easy driving Savannah Way today with a quick 70km side trip from Normanton to Karumba.
If fishing or birdwatching is on your agenda, this is the ideal place for both. Karumba is right on the Gulf of Carpentaria, at the mouth of the Norman River - and it's known as Australia's barra fishing capital. The town is surrounded by wetlands, home to huge saltwater crocodiles and a vast array of birdlife including herons, brolgas, jabiru, pelicans, cranes, brolgas and black swans. Just to name a few.
Want to throw a line in? Head out on one of the many fishing tours - or make your way to the Les Wilson Barramundi Centre where you can learn a few facts and catch and release too. If you come up short, don't despair: just grab a famous barra burger at Ash’s on the Point.
For a good intro to the sights and wildlife found here, The Croc and Crab Tour will take you by boat into the mangroves to spot crocs, catch crabs and enjoy some morning tea with epic views.
The best place to be as the sun goes down is the Sunset Tavern at Karumba Point. Delectable mud crabs and seafood are on the menu, as is plenty of cold beer. Golden hour has never looked better.
Campers can set up at Karumba Sunset Caravan Park, but if you are looking for a bit of style and comfort after some dusty days on the road, book in at the beachfront End of the Road Motel. It’s breezy, barefoot vibe is a welcome change in pace from the outback track on your Savannah Way road trip.
Driving Savannah Way will lead you the three-ish hours toward Burketown - but for now, you should set your sights on what just might be the road trip highlight: Boodjamulla (Lawn Hill) National Park (not currently open).
A place that defies words, Boodjamulla is a treasure that needs to be seen to be believed. To stand in its majesty: home to ancient landscapes and one of the world's most significant fossil sites.
Here, Lawn Hill Gorge carves a serpentine ribbon of emerald green through the dry savannah landscape. One of the best ways to explore it yourself is the Lawn Hill Gorge canoe trail, paddle serenely through lily-clad waters and peer at the towering sandstone cliffs that rise either side of you.
Accommodation – either camping or cabins – is at Adel’s Grove (not currently open), where you can take a dip in turquoise, mineral infused waters or kayak up the gorge to the idyllic Indari Falls. This is a perfect spot for cooling off after a hot day on the road.
Adel’s Grove is also a good base for visiting the Riversleigh Fossil Fields (not currently open), the World Heritage-listed mammal fossil site which dates back about 25 million years. The 800-metre fossil trail takes about an hour and there is an interpretive centre to help you understand the journey.
Over the next couple of hundred kilometres, there are a couple of great bush pubs to stop off at – Gregory Downs, sitting alone on the Wills Developmental Road, and Burketown, which boasted the oldest pub in the Gulf until it burnt down a couple of years ago. Thirsty travellers will be happy to know the pub has been rebuilt, with an extra story in its history to share.
Most visitors to Burketown come for the fishing – thanks to the Albert River which winds its way between wetlands and savannah plains, you can reel in some of the biggest catch of your life.
With just a day to get a taste of the area, let locals lead your way. Indigenous-owned Yagurli Tours offers fishing charters, 4WD tours, sunset tours and stargazing - and your chance to experience the land through the eyes and knowldge of the traditional landowners.
If you overnight at Burketown – from late September to early November – early risers are treated to the phenomenon called the ‘Morning Glory’. These spectacular rolling clouds travel at up to 60km per hour and extend as far as the eye can see, appearing in the hours before dawn. It’s well worth getting up for, and an experience witnessed few other places in Australia. The perfect end to a week on the road driving Savannag Way – offering stillness with nature and stirring an appreciation within you for these natural phenomena our land plays host to.
Got a little more time up your sleeve? Here's how to take things easy along Savannah Way for two weeks. Bringing the whole crew? Get these ideas to tackle the trip with kids.
If driving Savannah Way sparked your interest in outback road trips, get future holiday inspiration here.