Following the founders: the heritage-filled drive from Toowoomba to Stanthorpe

Giddy up! Load up your horseless carriage (otherwise known as a car) and head to the Southern Downs in Queensland Country, where history comes to life in grand old buildings, country pubs, heritage cafes and award-winning wineries.

While Clydesdale horses pulling Cobb & Co coaches on rough bush tracks are just memories, there is much for heritage-lovers to find on the back roads between Toowoomba and Stanthorpe. It takes around two hours (without stops) to drive the 160km scenic route via Drayton, Nobby, Allora and Warwick but it also makes a delightful extended day trip, or even a couple of days’ leisurely pace if you want to experience the historic accommodation on offer. Returning from Stanthorpe to Brisbane takes around three hours.

Toowoomba traditions

Start by stepping back in history to the 1860s with a visit to Toowoomba’s Cobb + Co Museum. If you don’t know the difference between old-fashioned people carriers such as a sulky (two-wheeled cart) or a buggy (a stylish four-wheeled carriage), browsing the 47 vehicles at the Cobb + Co Museum will set you straight. Just don’t line up for a pat of the lifelike horses and goats harnessed to the carriage (they’re definitely fake).

In 1866 when Cobb + Co’s coaches travelled around 80km a day, it would have taken two rather uncomfortable days on thinly padded seats in a swaying coach to travel the 129 km journey between Brisbane and Toowoomba. Today, it takes around two hours in an air-conditioned car. 

A carriage would look right at home in historic hotel Vacy Hall’s elegantly curved driveway. Built in 1899, Vacy Hall makes you feel like the lord of the manor. In the morning, your breakfast arrives on tea trolley, while in the evening you can sit beside a roaring fire and sip port.

Wander across the road for dinner at Gip’s Restaurant in historic Clifford House. It’s called Gip’s after Darling Downs pioneer James Taylor’s little Jack Russell dog. He loved him so much he buried Gip with an engraved headstone in the grounds. The restaurant’s must-try is Moreton Bay bug ravioli in a vermouth cream sauce.

While Toowoomba is known as the garden city and hosts the Carnival of Flowers annually, walking its streets reveals a rich architectural heritage of cute Queenslander-style wooden houses and impressive heritage buildings. Pop in and take a tour of The Empire Theatre (suspended during COVID). Built in 1911 and following a fire rebuilt in 1933, restored theatre is an Art Deco delight.

Preserved in time

As you head towards Stanthorpe, The Royal Bull’s Head Inn on the outskirts of Toowoomba at Drayton provides a stark contrast to the opulence of Vacy Hall.  This National Trust property looks as though the 19th-century owners have just stepped out. The Inn was built in 1859 and included the luxury of a bathroom. It opens to visitors every Wednesday morning, but there are also ghost tours at night.

Next stop is Rudd’s Pub at Nobby, the home of Steele Rudd’s famous characters, Dad and Dave. Local legends say Rudd used to pen his stories in front of the fireplace here. The walls date from 1893 and covered with stuff that your great grandfather would have used. The pub serves morning tea and lunch.

Cruise Allora’s main street to find the former bank manager’s residence where P.L. Travers (born Helen Lyndon Goff), the author of Mary Poppins, lived for two years. The late Victorian house (built in 1879) is restored as a family home, and tours are available by appointment.

Sites that tell a story

Just before Warwick, you’ll see the imposing sandstone Glengallan Homestead and its Heritage Centre. This grand building shares the story of prosperous boom times for pastoralists followed drought-induced gloom, when the abandoned house became marked for demolition. It has returned from ruin with help from dedicated volunteers.

Built in 1867, the uncompleted two-story country house only has one wing but has been brought to life through interpretation. Walk through the building and wander the extensive grounds, after which a pot of tea and scones, pikelets or damper with butter and golden syrup will refresh at Eliza’s cafe at Glengallan.

At the Abbey Boutique Hotel in Warwick (formerly Abbey of the Roses), guests can sleep in the Mother Superior’s room, a nun’s cell or 16sqm rooms that open onto the veranda. All have more luxury than the original bedrooms for the 1891 stone convent built for the Sisters of Mercy. What Mother Superior would think about a plush canopied king bed in her room is anyone’s guess. Stay here and enjoy the lord or lady of the manor feeling, or tour the public areas of the building and grounds.

For a snack with a side of history, the Belle Vu Café in Warwick’s Palmerin Street opened in 1919. Along with an excellent coffee, it serves a popular traditional vanilla slice and good coffee.

Surrounded by collectibles and antiques at Heritage Estate Winery, just before Stanthorpe, you might think you’re in an antique shop. However, the James Halliday five-star winery sign (an accolade they’ve received several times) sets the story straight.

The winery also is home to a historic 17-seat rosewood and leather table that dates back to 1859. The Executive Council gathered around this very table on June 6, 1859, when Queen Victoria declared Queensland a colony separate from New South Wales.

There’s more heritage to be found out the back in the circa-1864 cedar-lined cottage which is bookable as guest accommodation. It's believed to be the Granite Belt’s oldest cottage, but there’s also a Shepherd’s Hut that dates from 1842 at the Stanthorpe Heritage Museum. The museum has 14 buildings and 20,000 artefacts in its collections.

Taste old-fashioned country life

Visit some wineries, go wandering in the national parks and breath in the fresh, clean air of the Granite Belt. When you’ve had your fill, head back to Brisbane via Cunningham’s Gap with a stop at Gleneden Family Farm and Bullock Team near Maryvale along the way.

This holistic, family-run, regenerative farm offers bookable hay wagon tours. You’ll meet the happy pasture-fed cows and heritage breed pigs and see how pastured chooks live. Fourth-generation farmer and bullocky Rohan also is a master of many of Australia’s disappearing bush skills. He demonstrates blacksmithing, wheelwrighting and greenhide bullock whip making; however, the bullock team will always be the star of the show.

Check what produce is for sale in the farm shop and take a piece of flavoursome country life home with you. As you leave the Darling Downs and drive over the Great Dividing Range through Cunningham’s Gap, take in the sweeping views towards the coastline.