Guide
By Narelle Bouveng
When it comes to top fishing spots in Queensland, it doesn’t get much better than Karumba. If you’ve heard of it, chances are it’s your favourite spot already, but if you haven’t, we’re about to elevate it to the top of your fishing wish list.
Hovering on the banks of the mighty Norman River and tucked snugly into the armpit of the north-west corner of the Gulf of Carpentaria, Karumba is the portal to the Gulf’s million dollar fishing industry and the only place in Queensland’s outback with a sealed road that leads right to the beach.
It’s also the only place where you can see the sun setting over the sea from the mainland in Queensland, and while we don’t like usually like to brag, this place is “Barradise” when the Barra and King Salmon go on the run.
Barramundi is said to be better here than anywhere else on the planet, but if you don’t believe us, before you wet a line, line up for the world-famous Barra burger at Ash’s on the Point. Tell us we’re dreaming if this is not the best Barra burger you have ever smashed and if you can go seconds, try the King Salmon Burger for a delicious double fishy fix.
You’ll find Barra on every menu in Karumba year-round, but the chance to land your own comes from February to October during Barra season, when you can throw in a line beside the 500 or so local residents - and the hundreds of other fishing hopefuls that venture here on the hunt for prized Barramundi.
But that's not where it ends. There’s threadfin and blue salmon, golden snapper (fingermark), grunter, black jewfish, goldspot cod and groper, mackerel, queenfish, trevally, catfish, bream, flathead and whiting to name just a few. The Gulf is also where the trawlers pull out prawns by the tonne each season, so expect to feast on a seafood smorgasbord. And if you don’t mind mud crab, the estuaries and mangroves of the Norman River that snake out to the sea are full of them. Just be sure to keep a keen eye out for crocs who love Barra and crab too.
Did you know that Barramundi are born males and change into females later? Or that they release their roe in perfect poetic alignment with the full moon?
For a croc-free Barra session, head to the Les Wilson Barramundi Centre, a state-of-the-art multi-million dollar centrepiece for the region and fascinating fish-inspired interpretive centre where you can learn everything there is to know about the lifecycle of the famous, sweet-fleshed fish and fill your gills with fascinating fishy facts
There’s even barramundi leather, a fabric buttery soft but durable that can be made into anything from swimsuits to furniture…barra bikini anyone?
The true highlight, however is for a small fee, you can catch and release Barra year-round in a pond stocked full of fish that will fight like they do in the wild, but can be kissed and released to fight another day too. And we repeat, in croc-free comfort.
The town of Karumba itself has scratched a foothold somewhere between the red dust of the outback and the aqua spangled waters of the Gulf in a place delightfully monikered “where the outback meets the sea.”
You can make you way 750 km across the Savannah Way from Cairns, or 570 kms up the Matilda Way from Mount Isa to find it, but be prepared to follow a procession of caravans and tinnies all on route to Karumba to hopefully fill up their eskies with fresh fillets. And when it comes to Karumba accommodation, in peak season you’ll be jostling for a spot at the popular Karumba caravan park.
There’s a fascinating history to soak up in Karumba. It was once a service port for Qantas Catalina Flying Boats who would call in to refuel on their way to London, plus gold and cattle have made their mark on the region as well. For something edgy, head to the notorious Animal Bar, which in its heyday was not the type of place we would suggest to friends, but it’s the only outback bar in Australia with a Red Hot Chilli Peppers song dedicated to it, and worth a daring frosty to let the locals indulge you in the legend of its notoriety.
For something tamer, the sunsets in Karumba are almost as legendary as the fishing, so be sure to sink a few sundowners at The Sunset Tavern at Karumba Point. The balmy palm-fringed beer garden stares enchantingly out across the Gulf, picking up the cooling breezes and serving a delightful array of fresh fishy things straight from the sea. While local custom is to order some Gulf prawns alongside a few beers, you can also wander next door to End Of The Road Motel’s Anchorage Bar & Cafe for delicious wood-fired pizzas.
But everything comes back to the Barra. It’s the true anchor of the town, and to visit the famous residents in their natural habitat, join The Croc and Crab Tour to punch into the mangroves to spot crocs, catch crabs and enjoy some morning tea. If sunset if more your jam, join the Ferryman Sunset Cruise for a feast of fresh gulf prawns washed down with sparkling wine and a salt-dusted serving of history covering the industries that quite literally float the town’s boat.
On both tours you’ll spot the Gulf’s famous wildlife - Jabiru, Brolga, all sorts of raptors plus plenty of magnificent and colossal (some as big as three metres) crocs, basking on the banks of the Norman River. Karumba is a wild frontier town, and the crocs do rule, so let that serve as a reminder that if you don’t know boats, enlist the services of a local on a fishing charter before chancing it on your own.
There are boats for all adventurers, from those that prefer the muddy mangroves where the Barra prefer to lurk or the open seas where the bigger fish species love to run. Charters are offered by expert local fisherman and some even come with a guarantee - catch something or you can come back the next day until you do. So no stories about the one that got away here.
February to October is Barra season. Fishing is not permitted at other times to give the stock a chance to replenish. Sustainability is important to the fishing folk in Karumba, and they’re pioneers in protecting their stocks for future generations. It was how the Barra Centre started, as a hatchery for fingerlings to replenish the waterways.
The other upside of visiting outside of Barra season is a little bit magical. The Morning Glory Cloud spans across the sky in wave-like formations stretching as long as 1000km and up to 1-2km high during the warmer months from September to November. It’s a natural phenomenon, and usually spotted by chance, but locals say high humidity and a strong sea breeze the day before are the perfect conditions for making the mystical clouds appear.