The ultimate 10-day road trip through the Gulf Savannah

Queensland and road trips go hand-in-hand. As well as being the second largest state in Australia, it’s also where you’ll find some of the most scenic stretches of road in the Southern hemisphere.  For an adventure-packed drive that combines Indigenous culture and history with breathtaking geological wonders, take a journey into the Gulf Savannah: a vast, pristine wilderness stretching from the east coast right across the Gulf of Carpentaria. 

Days 1 & 2: Cruise up the coast to Cooktown

Start your ten day adventure in Tropical North Queensland’s unofficial capital: the coastal city of Cairns. Grab the keys to your 4WD and a coffee to go from Blackbird Laneway  (try the Garana blend, named after the local word for Black Cockatoo), then point your compass north-west.  It’s time to discover Queensland’s remote northern heart.

Today’s destination is the historic port of Cooktown. It’s a solid four hour drive up the Mulligan Highway,  but there’s still time to fit in a few scenic stops on route. Sink a brew at one of the oldest pubs in North Queensland: the National Hotel in Mount Molloy. Then, stop just short of Cooktown for a dip in the refreshing waters of Little Annan Gorge, an idyllic swimming hole carved out of black granite. 

On arrival, check into The Sovereign Resort Hotel before kicking back with a beer and a bucket of locally-caught prawns at the hotel’s Cafe Bar.

Next morning, fuel up with an early breakfast at the Balcony Restaurant, then it’s time to meet your guide from Culture Connect. Today’s destination is Normanby Station, where you’ll spend the day with Aboriginal traditional owners and get an insight into their way of life. Marvel at ancient rock art galleries and learn about the Balnggarrawarra people’s deep connection to country in the hands of your expert guide.

Days 3-5: Sleep under the stars in Quinkan Country

Today you’re back on the road bright and early for the 3.5 hour drive to Laura (home to the bi-annual celebration of Aboriginal culture, the Laura Dance Festival).  Head south along the Cooktown Discovery Route (part of another epic Queensland road trip, the Great Tropical Drive) before bearing west into Gulf Savannah country.

Keep a look out for some striking landmarks on the way. You’ll pass the imposing granite ranges of Black Mountain (Kalkajaka) National Park (dubbed the Bermuda Triangle of far north Queensland because of the number of mysterious disappearances that have occurred there). And if you fancy a break from driving, take a detour to Trevethan Falls and bathe in tranquil waters surrounded by age-old rainforest.

Once you reach the township of Laura, bed down for the night at the Laura Motel and get a good night’s sleep (you’re going to need it for tomorrow’s wilderness camping experience).

Then it’s time to lace up your walking shoes and open your mind on a 3 day, 2 night 4WD adventure with Jarramali Rock Art Tours (not currently operating). Meet your guide in the township and hit the red dirt on your journey through Quinkan country to Jarramali bush camp. After a bush tucker lunch, follow your Indigenous guide on a walking tour along red sand escarpments and past rocky gorges to reach 20,000 year old rock art.

As night falls, help prep dinner in the camp kitchen with your fellow campers and fill your belly as you swap stories around the fire.  Fall asleep to the sounds of the bush, then spend the next two days hiking through valleys and splashing in waterholes as you take a deep dive into the Aboriginal way of life.

Traveller tip: If two nights camping under the stars isn’t your style, opt for the single night or full day tour instead.

Days 6-7: Explore ancient natural wonders in Queensland’s heart

Day 6 takes you back to Laura to kick off the next stage of your Gulf Savannah road trip: the epic 675km journey to Cobbold Gorge in Outback Queensland.  Of course, it wouldn’t be a road trip without a few interesting stops along the way.

Pause to stretch your legs at Ravenshoe - the highest town in Queensland at an ear-popping 920 metres above sea level. The former timber settlement is surrounded by lush mountain pastures and tropical rainforest, making for a picturesque pitstop.

Keep driving south west for a few more hours to reach Mount Surprise, a gem fossicking town that sits on the edge of an immense lava flow from an ancient volcano. Wander ancient, subterranean lava tubes - the longest in the world - and camp overnight in the shadow of the volcano on a tour of Undara Volcanic National Park.

By the time you reach your Cobbold Village cabin on day 7 it’ll be time for lunch: eat like a local and order a plate of the fresh Gulf-caught fish this region’s famous for. Spend the afternoon exploring the working cattle property on which your accommodation is located, or head out to explore Cobbold Gorge National Park. With its ancient geological formations and sheer cliff faces of striated red rock, it’s one of the most awe-inspiring landscapes you’re ever likely to come across.

Days 8 to 10: Land a giant barra in Burketown

This final leg of your trip is packed with incredible fishing spots, so don’t leave home without your rod and tackle box.  Wave goodbye to Cobbold Gorge and arrive in Normanton just in time to catch your supper. Drop a line in the Norman River and hook a barra or jewfish - or head to the Purple Pub in Normanton for some home-cooked pub fare if the fish aren’t biting.

Spend the night in Normanton then cruise west another 200kms to reach your final destination, Burketown (or Mounjibi as it’s known to its traditional owners).  Visit during the wet season to see the salt pans around this tiny rural township transform into Australia’s largest wetland. Expect to spot sea eagles, brolgas, parrots and even the endangered sarus crane as birds flock from miles around to visit this two million hectare outback oasis.

Check into your self-contained cabin at Savannah Lodge (with a quick food stop via the village takeaway) then get ready for an evening of stargazing with Yagurli Tours - owned and operated by the local Gangalidda and Garawa Peoples. The Yaliya’s Stories stargazing experience will have you pondering your place in the universe as you gaze through powerful telescopes at a glittering, light pollution-free night sky. Learn how the world’s oldest living culture interprets the heavens and phases of the moon through Dreamtime stories told by your local Gangalidda guide.

While there’s plenty on offer for birdwatchers and amateur astronomers, Burketown is even more famous for its fishing.  On the final day of your journey, hop aboard a fishing charter with Yagurli Tours (their name means fishing in the local lingo) and try your hand at traditional Indigenous fishing techniques. Cruise along the Gambumanda (Albert River) and explore the surrounding river systems on the lookout for barra, king salmon, sooty grunter and mud crabs.

Traveller tip: The best fishing is said to be between April and June.

Inspired by this itinerary but haven’t got ten days to spare? Then you might want to check out this 5 day Indigenous road trip around Tropical North Queensland.