Road Trip
By Jennifer Johnston
Outback and country Queensland is jam-packed with regional towns offering old-fashioned country hospitality, history, and an escape from the city hustle. With an eye on tourism, many regional towns also offer bespoke tours delivering a special connection with locals and the community.
On this 1890-kilometre road trip, you’ll travel from Brisbane to the Sunshine Coast, to Miles, Roma, Charleville, Cunnamulla, St George, Toowoomba then back to the river city.
These regional Queensland towns are connected by a network of highways; if you believe a 4WD is required to travel comfortably, you’ll need to re-think that. The sealed bitumen roads out to Charleville and then St George are suitable for passenger vehicles typically driven around city suburban streets. All you need is the downloaded playlists and a readiness for adventure.
Miles Historical Village | Photo by @travelbugwithin
Leaving the beachside town of Caloundra at 8.30am, the car is packed and the excitement palpable. It’s not long before the Bruce Highway is swapped for the D’Aguilar Highway passing the small country towns of Woodford, Kilcoy, Blackbutt and the swaying pine trees of the Yarraman State Forest before stopping for lunch at Dalby.
Enjoy a meal at the family friendly Urban Paddock Café inside the historic old Queenslander-style Quambi House. If the popular café is too busy and time is short, an alternative is the Coffee Club or Brumby’s bakery further up Cunningham Street.
Journey on 90 minutes (127 kilometres) from Dalby to Miles to the Miles Historical Village Museum, celebrating its 50th anniversary in 2021.
Step back in time onto what could be mistaken for a movie set: a circle of 30 buildings including an original rail sliding, a bushie’s slab hut, a general store, post office and hospital, all filled with memorabilia from a bygone era.
Overnight at the Swagsman Motor Inn in recently renovated rooms with a private courtyard overlooking the Dogwood Creek. Take an easy stroll to the Queensland Hotel Miles for laid-back country pub dining.
The next morning, before departing Miles, indulge in a little retail therapy at Lisa Kennedy Collections. Inside the locally owned store is a range of contemporary homewares, stylish fashion, and an eclectic jewellery selection.
At Wallumbilla make a left detour to the Calico Cottage, located beneath the roof of a disused grain shed. The cottage has shelves stocked with delicious freshly baked goodies, and crafts made by local communities.
Continue driving for 81 kilometres to Roma and savour lunch at one of the pubs or cafes on McDowall Street, then drive along the Warrego Highway for 90 minutes to Mitchell. Pop into Samios Trading Post and be tempted by their extensive range of country clothing and footwear.
Further down the highway you’ll pass through Morven. Look for a low set modern building from the highway; the town’s pub, the Sadleir’s Waterhole. This new pub, recently finished in 2020, was built by a band of local families on the site of old Morven Hotel, destroyed by fire in 2016.
The landscape alters to mulga country on the outskirts of Charleville. On both sides of the highway the rich red soil is crowned by scraggy shrubs with blackened trunks and grey green leaves. As scrappy as the mulga appears, these trees are a vital food source to cattle in times of drought.
Don’t miss the lone date palm standing tall above the mulga: nature’s signpost signalling you’re about to enter Charleville.
Photo by @travelbugwithin
There’s much to see and do in the largest town in the Murweh Shire.
Inside Charleville’s historic railway station get up close to the shy nocturnal marsupials at the Charleville Bilby Experience. Learn about the work started by zoologist Peter McRae, who 30 years ago established the first captive breeding facility for these endangered creatures with the pink rabbit-like ears. After the talk, observe a family of active bilbies in an enclosure that mimics night-time.
A behind-the-scenes tour at Charleville’s Corones Hotel brings alive the history of the watering hole built in the late 1920s. Afterwards enjoy a drink in the front bar, complete with Roman mosaic floor, Grecian beams, and Egyptian cornices.
Charleville has taken advantage of the minimal light ‘pollution’ at the Cosmos Centre. The observatory roof rolls back revealing expanses of clear night sky adorned with star clusters, constellations, and the planets. Sophisticated 14-inch telescopes zoom in on Saturn’s rings and the vibrant planet Jupiter. Day visitors can observe the surface of the sun through a Hydrogen Alpha Telescope, one of only 10 in the world.
Outback Date Farm | Photo by @travelbugwithin
Did you know the American Army hid one of their top-secret army bases in Charleville during WWII? Five large hangars, 101 buildings and three runways were constructed at Charleville Airfield in 1942. US servicemen used mulga trees and chicken wire to camouflage the planes and air strip from prying enemy eyes. All these secrets (and more) are revealed on the WWII Secret Base Tour.
You’d easily think you’ve escaped to the Middle East on a tour of Outback Date Farms. Lutheran Pastor Mark Hampel proudly shares stories about his family-owned 57-acre date farm planted in 2014. The sustainable farm uses reclaimed town wastewater for irrigation.
Fishing the Ward River in Charleville is a popular pastime, but if you’ve forgotten your fishing rod drop into Judey’s Browse in Fishing and Camping store where colourful character and owner operator "Rude Jude" sells not only fishing and tackle gear, but also stocks novelty "adult" items.
Grab a takeaway coffee at Charlotte’s Nest and browse the gift store while waiting for your latte to brew.
A tour at the Charleville School of Distance Education and the Royal Flying Doctor Visitor Centre gives an insight into the crucial medical services provided to rural families.
Two travellers are sitting in rustic outdoor paths at a cattle station in Outback Queensland. Each are holding drinks and enjoying the peaceful outlook.
On the Mitchell Highway towards Cunnamulla around 30 kilometres from Charleville, pull into the slip road and view the memorial next to the Heroes Bridge over Angellala Creek. The bridge was constructed in 2015 after a truck carrying 50 tonnes of ammonium nitrate rolled over a year earlier and exploded, destroying the nearby bridge and surrounding landscape.
As you’re nearing Cunnamulla turn left onto the Balonne Highway and travel 30 kilometres towards St George, until you spot the Charlotte Plains sign. Distances are vast on this 27,000-hectare family owned and operated sheep and cattle station, so take a deep breath because it’s another 24km of gravel corrugated road before you reach the Charlotte Plains homestead. Depending on the day (check their website to book) take a tour of the station’s highlights with the very colourful and energetic owner, Robyn Russell.
The reward at the end of the day (or at sunrise) is an outdoor bath filled with warm bore water piped from the great artesian basin running below ground.
Photo by @riversandswinery
This is a big day of driving which could be broken up with an overnight stay in St George.
If travelling on to Toowoomba, stop to stretch the legs at the cellar door of Riversands wines. Enjoy lunch with a glass of wine from Queensland’s most western vineyard in their picturesque gardens.
Toowoomba Carnival of Flowers
If you coincide your visit to Queensland’s largest inland city during the Carnival of Flowers, you’re in for a colourful treat. With spring in the air, wander the open parks and private gardens. Treat yourself in grand style for the last night of your road trip with an overnight stay in the heritage-listed Vacy Hall.
If you’re in town on a weekend, do not miss the Toowoomba Farmer’s Market from 7am – 12 pm every Saturday near the windmills of the Cobb+Co Museum. Stock the car up with produce from local farmers and crafts by artisans before you head back to the big smoke.