How to tackle the Great Inland Way road trip in 12 days

Day 1: Hebel to St George (200km / 2hr 30m)

Begin your road trip along the Great Inland Way at the NSW border. Awash with golden fields, farmland and gum forests, head north from the southern edge of Queensland as you pass through its sun-bleached landscapes peppered with quaint, tiny towns.

First up is the small hamlet of Hebel. With its wide streets and heritage-style storefronts, its centre may be small, but its history certainly isn’t: the town’s watering hole, the Hebel Hotel, was once a hideout of the infamous Kelly gang. Heading north, drop into one of Queensland’s most famous pubs, Nindigully, an establishment that’s as famous for its food (home to the iconic 14kg ‘Road Train’ burger) as it is for holding the title of Queensland’s longest-running liquor licence.

Arrive in St George by mid-afternoon, giving you plenty of time to explore. Known to have the best inland fishing spots in Queensland, keen anglers could spend a few hours along the banks of the Balonne River. Or take a load off with sundowners at Riversands Vineyards, the state’s westernmost winery, where you can take a tour that combines a trip to a local cotton farm as well as exploring the winery to learn why St George’s deep sandy loam soils are perfect for grape growing.

Kick back this evening on board Sandytown River Cruises, cruising the mighty Balonne River as the sun dips below the horizon. Part of the Murray-Darling Basin System, the river is home to yellow belly, murray cod and blue claw, plus some 230 native bird species – see how many you can spot.

After a day’s driving and sightseeing, check into St George Riverfront Tourist Park. Choose from caravan sites or the campground – each with their own firepit – along the water’s edge. Keep your eyes peeled for resident kangaroos and a host of native birds at sundown and sunup.

Grab a cuppa from Farmhouse Café on Victoria Street, then set off along the St George Heritage Trail – a self-guided walk and drive around town that will lead you to the most important historical sites. Download the St George Heritage Trail brochure or pick up a brochure from the Balonne Shire Visitor Information Centre to guide the way.

Day two follows the red dirt to Roma. This section of the Great Inland Way winds its way through some exceptional Outback Queensland landscapes; to the east, Toowoomba and the Great Dividing Range, to your left, rust red desert plains, country outposts, and big sky.

Soak up the local region’s history by pulling into the tiny town of Surat. Approx. 80 kms out of Roma, it was made famous by the Cobb & Co. Changing Station during the wool boom and boasts those country town vibes in spades – and is now home to an interesting museum and art gallery full of artefacts. Stretch the driving legs on a walk in the tranquil surrounds of the Balonne's riverside parklands, before tackling the final haul and pulling up in Roma.

Pulling up in Roma, get a different taste of the country this afternoon at Western Queensland Spirit - Western Queensland's first small-batch, hand crafted distillery, specialising in gin, vodka, rum and liqueurs. Get in the spirit with a tasting flight and a grazing platter, and be sure to grab a bottle of your favourite as a souvenir – it’s sure to come in handy during one of the many stargazing opportunities along the Great Inland Way. 

Hit up Big Rig - a museum that takes you through the fascinating history of oil and gas mining in the region. You’ll have the option of a self-guided tour, or stick around for the night show sunset experience, a 35-minute sound and light journey to learn of the entertaining trials and triumphs of early industry men and women in Roma.

Rest your head tonight at the Roma Central Motel.

Tip: Big events in Roma sell out fast – as does accommodation. If your trip coincides with the Roma Races or Easter in the Country, you’ll want to book early.

Time your visit on a Tuesday to catch Roma’s famous cattle sales; this is Australia’s largest cattle selling centre with over 400,000 cattle passing through each year. The interactive visitor centre is open daily, however tours are held in line with the weekly sales – every Tuesday at 8.30am.

Spend the rest of the morning exploring the town. Walk along the heritage-listed Heroes' Avenue, planted with more than 100 bottle trees in memory of local ANZAC heroes, including a visit to Roma’s largest bottle tree.

Swap the red dirt for soaring sandstone as you head straight into Queensland’s outback wilderness. It’s just two hours up the road along Carnarvon Highway to tonight’s destination – Wallaroo Outback Retreat. A serene lodge on a 72,000 acre cattle property among the sandstone cliffs of the Carnarvon Ranges, Wallaroo is home to ten glamping tents ideal for getting back to nature after a few busy days on the road. Take a walk, try to catch yabbies in the dam, or simply enjoy a glass of wine by the fire. Here, doing little can be so enriching.

Day 4: Wallaroo Outback Retreat to Carnarvon Gorge (90km / 1hr) 

It’d be a real shame to spend time on Wallaroo Station without exploring its nooks and crannies, and a tour is your only chance to explore this privately owned land. Jump in the 4WD and step back in time through millennia to explore a slice of Queensland that is captured in time: your local guides will introduce you to cycad groves, striking rock formations and Indigenous rock art – wonders few eyes see – imparting deeper meaning about the environment and agriculture along the way.

An unforgettable full-day tour, arrive back at Wallaroo Outback Retreat in the afternoon – giving you enough daylight to make headway toward the magnificent Carnarvon Gorge section of Carnarvon National Park

There's a range of options on where to sleep, though Carnarvon Gorge Wilderness Lodge is closest to the action, with ensuited safari-style cabins set among native trees and ancient macrozamia palms. Base yourself here for the next two nights.

Day 5: Carnarvon Gorge

Nestled in the Central Highlands, Carnarvon Gorge is Mother Nature’s masterpiece: soaring sandstone cliffs, natural amphitheatres and cliff walls adorned with ancient Indigenous engravings and paintings. There is an abundance of walking tracks that follow the edge of Carnarvon Creek and hit up some of the best views in the park, with the 19km Big Bend track the most popular – a full day walk that takes in the main attractions.

Carnarvon Gorge Eco Tours offers guided walks for those who want to better understand the flora and fauna as they wander.

Those seeking a serious hiking challenge won’t be let down, either. This is also home to the Carnarvon Gorge Great Walk; 84kms of breathtaking – and remote – walking track. Boolimba Bluff, Mickey Creek Gorge, Cathedral Cave and Big Bend; all icons of the natural world, each worthy of your time. A few days in this remote paradise will fly by.

Day 6: Carnarvon Gorge to Emerald (240km, 3 hours)

Rise early today to get behind the driver’s seat on a tag along 4x4 tour with Central Queensland Nature Tours. Over three hours, experience the ultimate off-road adventure through the hidden gems of Central Queensland Highlands, passing through unique landscapes and the stunning geological structure of Reid's Dome, surrounded by towering cliffs. Morning tea and unbeatable views included.

Hit the road again, making sure to pit-stop at Minerva Hills National Park. Eclipse Gap Lookout is a perfect lunch spot, just over an hour’s drive away from tonight’s destination.

From one geological marvel to another, continue your adventure along Queensland’s Great Inland Way to the Emerald gem fields. Take a stroll through the Emerald Botanic Gardens and ogle the elaborate iron lacework at the heritage-listed railway station, then tick off another iconic ‘Big Thing’ – a super-sized 25-metre replica of Van Gogh’s Sunflower painting.

Fossickers should try their luck searching for sapphires in the nearby gem fields. While you may think that 900km2 is more a ‘needle in a haystack’ than ‘get rich quick’ opportunity, people have struck gold in recent years (with a 753-carat sapphire found as recently as 2014). Stick around a bit longer with this 48-hour guide to Emerald.

Keen fossickers might find themselves at Rubyvale Motel for the night – otherwise take your pick from the range of affordable motels in Emerald. Emerald Inn offers fully self-contained apartments for a comfortable stay.

Day 7: Emerald to Charters Towers (480km, 5 hours)

From one prospecting town to another, head north today from Emerald to Charters Towers.

The beauty of a Great Inland Way road trip is how small spots you find along the way can make a big impact. One such place is Peak Range National Park, under two hours’ drive from Emerald. It’s little known but undeniably impressive, with towering volcanic peaks the remnants of eruptions between 29 and 32 million years ago. The park offers a range of walks and lookouts to enjoy.

Arriving in Charters Towers in the early afternoon, spend a few hours learning about ghosts, gold, and grandeur. Thanks to the gold rush in the 1800s, the city’s heritage architecture is a step back in time. Find beautiful examples along ‘One Square Mile’ (the centre of town), with the historical Stock Exchange Arcade oozing old country town grandeur, while street art around town reveals its history too. Just outside of town, learn about the region’s gold rush at the Venus Gold Battery - the largest surviving Battery relic in Australia.

For history buffs who want to know why this is one of Queensland’s most historical towns, be sure to catch the sunset from the top of Towers Hill and the outdoor “Ghosts After Dark” show. Then, check into Charters Towers Tourist Park or serviced apartments at Kernow Charters Towers – great launch pads to discover the area's main attractions.

Day 8: Charters Towers to Undara (380km/4-5hr)

If it already feels like you’re in the Wild West, just wait until your 9am call time at Texas Longhorn Tours: it’s a safari experience like no other. The ranch is home to several cattle breeds, including the famous Texas Longhorns – among the longest horned cattle in the world and direct descendants of the millions of Texas Longhorns that walked in the great trail herds from Texas in the late 1800s. Longhorn safaris run daily, except Wednesdays when guests can explore by horse-drawn wagon.

Fuelled up from the traditional Aussie smoko – it’s time to get more miles under those tires.

You’re now entering North West Queensland territory: where the landscape takes on an altogether more dramatic turn. Remote, rugged, and millions of years in the making, the backdrop here is picture-perfect.

A four-hour drive north will take you to Undara Volcanic National Park; a vision of lush tropical forests and soaring rock formations residing on the McBride Plateau. The Aboriginal word for ‘long way’, the park houses one of longest lava tube cave systems in the world and is accessible via guided walks.

Time your arrival to join Discovery Experience’s Wildlife at Sunset tour, where you’ll take in the views from Sunset Bluff – spotting kangaroos, wallabies and native birds, then walk through the magnificent Barkers Cave to get a chance to spot the thousands of rare micro-bats who inhabit the area. To get the full experience, stay onsite at Discovery Resorts. All accommodation - from restored train carriages, swag tents, campsites and homestead lodging - is set amongst prime national park bushland – meaning sunrise wake up calls and an orchestra of kookaburras accompany a hearty bush breakfast.

Day 8: Undara to Mareeba (230km / 3hr)

Get a closer look inside Undara’s vast cave system this morning. This landscape formed approximately 190,000 years ago when a volcanic eruption spewed molten lava down a dry riverbed. The outer layer formed a crust, and when the lava below drained away, a series of long, hollow tubes remained. It’s these tubes that can now be explored on foot with a guide – so join the first Archway Explorer tour of the day at 8am.

You could say the road along Queensland’s Great Inland Way leaves the best to last, worthy even of a place in this scenic drive list. Today, the rusty red and golden plains of the Outback give way to the lush green of the tropical north, where World Heritage Wet Tropics rainforest stretches as far as the eye can see.

Heading north east to the Atherton Tablelands, stop in at Queensland’s highest altitude town, Ravenshoe. Residing inside unspoilt World Heritage Rainforest, it’s better than the average spot for lunch, and the Ravenshoe Hotel makes brag-worthy schnitzels. It’s also home to Australia’s widest single-drop waterfall, Millstream Falls, which sits just outside town – and with three walking tracks to choose from, an ideal way to walk off lunch.

Waterfall chasers are in the right neck of the woods, too, with the magnificent waterfall circuit taking in Millaa Millaa, Zillie and Elinjaa Falls in a 100km journey. For a more off-the-beaten-track adventure, hike a lush 6km return circuit trail to Nandroya Falls where you can swim and relax, feeling truly in the middle of the rainforest. Alternatively, you could soak up the sun and cool waters of Lake Eacham in Crater Lakes National Park. One for the geologists, this 65-metre deep lake is a maar - a volcanic crater formed by massive explosions from the superheating of groundwater - and is home to over 180 bird species and musky rat-kangaroos.

But it’s not just the flora and fauna that make the Atherton Tablelands famous, the region is renowned for its food and drink, making it almost too tempting not to spend a few extra days here. Do it right with this itinerary for grazing your way across the tablelands.

Wild Nature Lodge is a unique place to make your base in Mareeba. Not too far outside of town, the glamping-style accommodation is nestled in the tranquil Mareeba Wetlands, and it’s a spectacular place to curl up and watch the world go by.

Tip: Budding mountain bikers will revel in the trails at Davies Creek Mountain Bike Park. Just east of Mareeba on the slopes of Lamb Range, the 24km network is a great way to experience the landscape and get your heart racing too.

Day 10: Mareeba

Today is dedicated to local-travel only as you delve deeper into the Atherton Tablelands. Ditch the car this morning, opting to take in sunrise from new heights on a sunrise hot air balloon ride high above the region’s rolling hills and rainforest.

Back on solid ground, make sure to pay a visit to Skybury Cafe and Roastery for breakfast and one of the best cups of coffee you’ll find in our tropical north. Skybury is Australia’s oldest coffee plantation, having grown Arabica beans on the rich soils of the Tablelands since 1987.

Want to know more about the region’s history? Explore the Mareeba Heritage Museum before you head back out into nature.

Fancy a dip? Emerald Creek Falls is one of the most enchanting spots for wild swimming, year-round. Cascading water washes over granite boulders to form a series of swimming holes surrounded by eucalypts, and between soaks you can wander to the lookout for views across the valley.

Dedicate any spare time this afternoon to any waterfalls and swimming holes you might have missed yesterday – and be sure to stop by any roadside farm stands to add to tonight’s cookup back at Wild Nature Lodge. Totally awe-struck? Pause your Great Inland Way road trip here to spend more time among the beauty of Atherton Tablelands.

Day 11: Mareeba to Rossville (240km / 3hr)

Head north towards your final destination of Cooktown, along the Mulligan Highway. Pass through the quaint townships of Mount Molloy and Mount Carbine on the edges of Kuranda State Forest and Mount Lewis National Park, then stop at the world famous Lion’s Den Hotel for lunch. Operating since 1875, pubs don’t get more authentic than is old Queensland gal, boasting personality in spades - both the building and the clientele.

Arrive as early as possible at tonight’s accommodation, a triple threat of eco-safari tents, beautiful bushland, and immersive Indigenous cultural experiences set alongside Kalkajaka (Black Mountain) National Park.

Abundant in wildlife and peacefulness, Rossville Retreat tours offers a unique opportunity to learn more about Aboriginal culture. You’ll be welcomed to Country in Kuku Nyungkul language with a smoking ceremony, introduced to bush tucker and natural medicines on a bushwalk, followed by sharing of Dreamtime stories and traditions. It’s an experience that will stay with you as you continue to explore further into Cape York.

Day 12: Rossville to Cooktown (30km / 30 mins)

Your final day on the Great Inland Way is an easy rider – Cooktown is just a half-an-hour hop up the road.

But take the scenic route and pull over at the lookout on the edge of Kalkajaka National Park. The park itself boasts a deep connection to local Aboriginal culture, with its huge black granite boulders an important meeting place for the Eastern Kuku Yalanji Aboriginal people. This site is the source of many Dreaming stories. Trust us, there’s few places more magical to stretch the legs and take in the views.

Once you’ve arrived in town, settle in before figuring out how to extend your stay or prep for an onward journey to Cape York; there’s so much to do in this remote pocket of Queensland. If you have a day to spare, Culture Connect's Normanby Station Aboriginal Rock Art and Rangers tour is one you shouldn't miss.

Visit Grassy Hill Lookout, the and the Cooktown Botanic Gardens, then walk to the Milbi Wall. Overlooking the mouth of the Endeavour River, the Milbi Wall memorial was designed by local Indigenous storytellers, telling of the Guugu Yimithirr people and their experience of Cook’s landing.

As the afternoon light dips into golden hour, cruise along the Endeavour River with Riverbend Tours. You’ll get a front row seat to the glowing harbour before heading upstream to witness sunset over the ranges – all the while learning Cooktown’s rich history from the Guugu Yimmidhar to Cook’s journey along the Cape.

Tip: time your visit to Cooktown in June to experience the Cooktown Discovery Festival, where each year Captain Cook’s landing and first interaction with the Indigenous Guugu Yimithirr people is re-enacted, with support through Cooktown Museum – another must-see while you’re here.

Check into The Sea View Motel to finish your Great Inland Way road trip in style. Cooktown’s only waterfront accommodation, the family-owned motel is in the heart of the action.

Where to from here?

Want to soak up views from the infinity pool a little longer? If twelve days on the road along Great Inland Way has got you wanting more, why not:

• Journey further north from Cooktown and tackle epic Cape York
• Go way out west across the Savannah Way to experience Queensland’s gulf
• Head back south and follow the coastal road from Cairns to Brisbane
• Drive to Cairns for a Great Barrier Reef adventure before flying home