Unearth the World Heritage-listed Riversleigh Fossil Site

Guide

Lucille	 Burkitt

By Lucille Burkitt

There are very few places in the world you can glimpse back through 25 million years of animal life on land – one of the many things that makes this remote destination so very special. Riversleigh is one of the top 10 places to find fossils in the world. While it’s off-the-beaten path in North West Queensland, this World Heritage site is home to fossils of our country’s most unique and extinct beasts. Think Tasmanian tigers, marsupial ‘lions’, a 15 million-year-old platypus and possums with sharp teeth. Nowhere else in the world is home to such a rich, detailed and continuous fossil record of the changes in flora, fauna and habitat overtime.

Riversleigh is amidst our outback's famed hot, dry, red conditions. It interprets the once thick rainforests and its mammal predecessors for you. It offers travellers a snapshot of Australia’s long history and the ongoing evolution of many species we now hold dear to our heart. It’s a place of great cultural significance to our First Nations peoples, especially near the rivers, resting on the south-western boundary of Waanyi territory. The magnitude of this history alone is worth delving further into – now pair it with a road trip, walking trails, camp sites and national parks. Incredible.

A place to slow down and learn. To soak up and discover. If you’re up for an adventure of both mind and body, this gives you far more stories than souvenirs.  

Getting off the beaten path to Riversleigh 

Lawn Hill New Ranger Station | Riversleigh World Heritage area

Riversleigh is in north-west Queensland. The outback. It’s around 200km north of Mount Isa. The fossil site makes up around 40 square kilometres of land, surrounded by calcium-rich waters, the main reason for the remarkably well-preserved fossils found on the grounds.

Best accessed by road, Riversleigh Fossil Site is 156km north of the Barkly Highway. Only the first 60kms of this is road sealed, so it’s not suitable for conventional cars or caravans. Although a 4WD is recommended, you can take the Gregory Downs route which is slightly shorter and while also unsealed, a more suitable drive for cars and off-road caravans. If you’re road-tripping from Cairns, you can access Riversleigh via the Savannah Way. Always check road conditions before you plan an adventure like this, the routes can be heavily impacted by recent rain and weather events.

Before you go, make sure to pack ample fresh water and spare food, in case of supply delays on the campsite. Two spare tires are advisable – if you’re in a rental, make sure the spare provided is up to the job before setting out. Camping supplies and a gas cooker are nice to have if you’re road tripping. You never know where Queensland might take you and it’s best to be prepared for the ride.

Where to rest your head for the night 

Adels Grove - Swimming Hole | Riversleigh World Heritage area

The best places to stay during your journey to Riversleigh Fossil Site are camp spots near Boodjamulla National Park. Adels Grove Camping Ground is a popular hub for visitors. It’s an eco-sensitive park on Lawn Creek Hill set amongst a plantation of exotic trees planted by the French botanist, Albert de Lestang, over 80 years ago. The resort is an oasis for the dusty, tired traveller; a place to refresh and recover while mingling with like-minded folk. Adels keep diversity of travel at the helm in offering plenty of accommodation options for every kind of explorer. Choose from en-suited rooms, to river view tents for a glamping experience, or campsites with tents to hire.

For more self-sufficient campers, pitch your tent at Myumba Bush Camp in one of their six sites by the Gregory River. While you have to pack your own water, food and camp gear, you’re in the heart of Riversleigh’s action. Myumba is only a 3.5km walk or drive to start exploring the fossil sites.

If staying in a township piques your interest, the Townview Motel in Mount Isa is a humble family owned stop with all the North Queensland essentials: air conditioning and a pool. It’s got that small-town warmth of the outback, without skimping on the home comforts. While you’re in town, enjoy another tid-bit of history at the Underground Hospital and Museum, opened in 1929 by Mount Isa Mine. It’s a fascinating stroll-through. 

Uncover ‘Site D’ and see fossils firsthand 

Riversleigh Fossil Fields | Riversleigh World Heritage area

Journey through the key stages of Australia’s evolution at ‘Site D’, one of the first fossil sites found at Riversleigh and the only one open to the public. Riversleigh Fossil Fields span across 10,000 hectares of land. The rugged grounds and surrounding limestone terrain mean visitor access is restricted to this one location, but you won’t be disappointed.

Many of us are entertained by the fury locals we know - koalas, kangaroos and wombats – but the history of their ancestors is incredibly fascinating. At Site D you’ll learn of kangaroos with canine teeth – a herbivore that used its fangs to fight off predators. You’ll uncover stories of early mammal species preserved by limestone, nose to nose with their young. If you close your eyes for a brief moment, you can imagine being surrounded by acres of dense rainforest, spotted with spring-fed lakes, turtles, fish and insects. It’s a world that existed millions of years ago, but the land’s history will have you feeling so much closer to it.

Follow the Fossil Trail 

Exploring Riversleigh Fossil Trail | Riversleigh World Heritage area

Photo by @_aswewander

Take the self-guided Riversleigh Fossil Trail to the top of the limestone outcrop of Site D and completely dive deep in the ancient surrounds. It’s a moderate walk for most fitness levels – under 1km and one hour, depending how long you linger.

Because of Riversleigh’s unrivalled richness, the time covered by its natural record and the quality of its yields, it was declared a World Heritage site over 25 years ago. The area has altered the way our history has uncovered itself, dating back as far as Gondwana. The Fossil Trail gives you a small glimpse of the diversity that the area is renowned for. You can discover the bones of towering flightless birds and the remains of the largest known freshwater crocodile. You can also book a tour from Adel’s Grove Camping and other commercial tour operators in the area.

Step back in time at the Riversleigh Fossil Centre 

Riversleigh Fossil Centre, Mount Isa | Riversleigh World Heritage Area

The Riversleigh Fossil Centre in Mount Isa is the perfect pitstop to further feed your curiosity. A museum filled with dioramas and exhibits, it’s a Mount Isa must-see. Experience the mammals that roamed the land before us - up close and personal.

Come face-to-face with life-sized prehistoric inhabitants, as you wind your way through educational videos and fossil displays that bring this ancient world back to life before you. If the work behind these incredible treasures fascinates you, the centre also runs guided tours and talks with the resident palaeontologist and field staff.

Uncover their ancient habitat in Boodjamulla National Park  

Family canoeing through the historic gorge, Boodjamulla (Lawn Hill) National Park | Riversleigh World Heritage area

Leave no fossil unturned and no National Park uncovered. Once you’ve learnt all there is to learn on the fossil fields, spend a day steeping in Boodjamulla National Park. Imagine what Riversleigh Fossil Site once looked like, now an oasis in dry land, this area was once thick with Gondwana’s vegetation.

Paddle a canoe through the aquamarine waters of the nearby gorge. You’ll find endless similarities between the fossils you studied and the present-day birdlife surrounding the water.

With walking tracks of varying difficulties scattered throughout Boodjamulla gorges and ridges, you won’t find yourself short of fossil-free activities. Try the Wild Dog Dreaming walk to see the extensive rock art and stone engravings – culturally significant artefacts to the Waanyi people.

Cool off in Indarri Falls 

The Indarri Falls walking track leads you through the heart of Boodjamulla’s sandstone landscape, to the top of picturesque Indarri Falls. This is your best opportunity for a cool dip in the Queensland outback, a 4km round trip with a rewarding treat mid-way through. The track is best walked in a clockwise direction if you’re looking for a less strenuous journey. Head out first thing in the morning to dodge the midday sun and be sure to find a moment of stillness within these incredible surrounds. You can also canoe to the base of the falls. 

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