How to visit Undara Volcanic National Park: the oldest standing lava tubes on earth

Itinerary

By Danielle Reckless

The Great Barrier Reef may steal the show for first time visitors to Cairns, but you haven't truly experienced the region unless you head west, into its big backyard.

Distinctly different from its azure coastline and coral gardens, the outback of Cairns & Great Barrier Reef offers unexpected experiences for those who like to get a bit rough and tumbled off the beaten track. Out here, nature is equal parts wondrous and peculiar. None more so than some 190,000-year-old lava-carved tunnels. 

A destination in and of itself, the drive from Cairns to Undara Volcanic National Park is just 3.5 hours. You can easily topple it in one day, but what makes this road trip so special are all the natural attractions en route. Where else can you see lava tubes, dormant volcanic craters, and waterfalls all in one weekend?

Give yourself a bit more time and stretch the journey over four days: this is how to do it. 

Day one: Cairns to the Atherton Tablelands (75km)

AM

This neck of the woods has its fair share of waterfalls and swimming holes - which you'll soon discover - but how about a dip in a lake formed by a crater?

Head south-west out of Cairns towards the Atherton Tablelands, winding your way up the Gillies Highway, before arriving at Lake Eacham in Crater Lakes National Park for lunch.

This natural beauty was formed around 12,000 years ago when molten magma rose to the earth’s surface, shaping a crater. Water has since filled it in, creating a tranquil lake in the middle of lush parkland.

Glimpse flashes of brilliant blue water as you stroll through shaded rainforest on your way to the banks. Unfurl a picnic by the lake, and cool off with a refreshing swim. Lazing on the grassy area, you’ll appreciate why locals love this place.

PM

Shake off the waters of Lake Eacham and jump back in the car for your next stop: the Curtain Fig Tree.

Easily accessible from the car park, just head along a wooden walkway through the rainforest to come face to face with this enormous strangler fig tree – one of the largest in all of our tropical north. 

Overnight

From an iconic tree to a home among them, tonight's accommodation is a treehouse perched on the slopes of an extinct volcano.

Mt Quincan Crater Retreat offers a slice of life in the rainforest canopy, where tree kangaroos are regularly spotted. Arrive in the afternoon and head out on one of the many hiking trails on the property to make the most of the incredible views of the crater, and catch the sun setting over the hills of the Atherton Tablelands.

When night falls, soak in the luxurious hot tub or snuggle up in front of the fireplace and listen to the sounds of nature. 

Day two: Atherton Tablelands to Undara Volcanic National Park (200km)

AM

If you like natural oddities, start your morning at Mount Hypipamee National Park.

Home to both Mt Hypipamee Crater and Dinner Falls, walk 400m along a smooth rainforest path and you’ll find yourself at a viewing platform peering down into a volcanic crater. Steep granite walls plummet 70m down to a deep hole of water covered in green waterweed.

Loop back along the walking track and you’ll come to Dinner Falls. This cascading waterfall is an idyllic spot for a swim, and leads to the mighty Barron River.

After towelling off, drive south-west into the Undara Volcanic National Park. Charge down the Kennedy Highway and watch the scenery dramatically change from lush green to Outback Savannah, with impressive termite mounds peppering the landscape.

PM

Arrive at Undara Experience in time for the Sunset Wildlife tour where you’ll soak up happy hour as the sun sets across Undara Volcanic National Park, before heading underground into the caves.

To get the full experience, stand at the cave entrance. After sundown, thousands of micro bats fly out to feast on insects, avoiding the snakes lurching out of the trees to catch them mid-flight. It’s definitely worth pushing through any apprehension you might have to stand amid the swarm.

Overnight

Undara Experience is the place to stay while exploring Undara Volcanic National Park, with the option to stay in quirky converted train carriages, well-appointed huts, swag tents, or take advantage of the campground and caravan sites.

Whichever your style, be sure to join fellow travellers around the campfire to swap stories and roast marshmallows. The perfect end to the day, and introduction to this fascinating outback experience. 

Day three: explore the tunnels of Undara Volcanic National Park

AM

Whether you wake to the morning chorus of birds or the smell the campfire, you're in for a good start with Undara Experience’s Bush Breakfast. Served at the Ringer’s Camp, simply pull up a stump and tuck into a feast of bacon, eggs and sausages, while sipping a cup of steaming Billy tea.

Later this morning it’s time to tour the Undara Lava Tubes - a place that's not only awe-inspiring to explore but rich in Indigenous history too, with traditional custodians the Ewamian People calling this area home for many thousands of years.

In fact ‘Undara’ is an Aborginal word for ‘the long way’, and when you get to the tubes you’ll see why. This is one of the oldest and best preserved lava tube systems anywhere on Earth, created when the Undara Volcano erupted over 190,000 years ago, pouring out enough lava to fill Sydney Harbour three times over.

Due to the delicate cave ecosystems, all visitors must join a guided tour through Undara Experience - but the knowledge of the Savannah Guides will only enhance your time here and appreciation for its magic. 

PM

This evening, take in the views above ground. Drive 9km back towards the Kennedy Highway to explore the Kalkani Crater. This crater is accessible without a guide, so if you arrive before sunset take your time walking around the 2.5km around the rim. Along the way you’ll get a 360-degree view of the bushland carpeting the crater, and the odd glimpse of a wallaby just off the path. 

Stay after dark for the best show in the outback: the sparkling Milky Way in all its glory.

Day four: Undara to Cairns (315km)

AM

Want to extend your holiday in the Queensland outback? Venture deeper into the outback and embark along the Savannah Way. Otherwise, bid goodbye to the bush as you start your four-hour drive back to Cairns - via somewhere different, of course.

Stop in at Millstream Falls National Park to check out Australia’s widest single-drop waterfall – Big Millstream Falls.

From the car park, a short path leads you to a viewing platform to appreciate the plunging falls formed from an ancient lava flow.

Ready for a waterfall you can swim underneath? It's time for the next stop. 

Back on the Kennedy Highway, head towards the town of Millaa Millaa and turn right onto the Palmerston Highway. The Palmerston cuts through Wooroonooran National Park, which is home to some of the best waterfalls in Queensland.

Millaa Millaa Falls is a hotspot for good reason: it's not just beautiful to look at, but easy access makes it a great waterfall to bring a picnic and laze among the rainforest between dips in its cool waters. 

Refreshed and truly inspired by nature's diversity, head back to Cairns. Where to next? Take your pick.

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