How-to
By Sarah Bristow
Escape the city with the ultimate Australian Outback adventure thanks to a journey along the Birdsville Track. This famously rugged trail links Marree in South Australia’s south-west to Queensland’s most western frontier of Birdsville. It’s a 517-kilometre foray which takes in an unforgettably diverse landscape, winding through wetlands, gibber plains, sand dunes, not to mention a trio of the nation’s most famous deserts - the Tiari Desert, Stony Desert and Simpson Desert. Let the below guide show you exactly how to tackle the Birdsville Track.
Photo by @maggiemakingtracks
The Birdsville Track is a trail that dates back to the 1860s that was used to move cattle from Queensland down through South Australia. That tradition remains, with the track continuing to host livestock trucks, alongside a growing number of tourists eager to explore the outback (yourself included). While it was once considered one of the more hazardous stock routes, it may today still be unsealed but it’s heavily maintained for the ease of visiting travellers. There are now actually a duo of tracks to choose from - the original is the ‘inside track’ only safe to use during dry conditions. While the ‘outside track’ is longer it’s considered more reliable.
A 4WD to start with. It’s recommended you use only a 4WD along this trail, thanks to road conditions varying along the way. Largely you can expect to be greeted with a stony track with large pebbles (gibbers and dry sand). Though weather changing conditions is also a factor. Driving time in total is around 10 hours (or 2-3 days) and while there are plenty of places to make a stop along the way, this is Outback Queensland so safety is paramount. Thanks to sketchy phone coverage, it’s recommended you take a two way radio, GPS, and maps with you in case of emergency. Snacks and water are also important. And fuel if possible - while diesel and petrol can be purchased at Mungerannie Roadhouse halfway along the track, there are no other fuel stops on the track.
You’ll find no end to the amount of things to see and do along the Birdsville Track. But among the eye-catching landscapes and landmarks that you’ll make your way through include a series of stand-outs. After a day traversing the red dirt, drop in to Clayton Bore to indulge in a warm artesian spa bath - the natural spring sits about 50 km north of Marree on the Clayton Station property. Later on your journey you can spend the night on Kalamurina - a property of outstanding conservation value which stretches across 1.7 million acres and offers select areas where you can pitch a tent.
While still in South Australia you can also say g’day to the Mulka Ruins (short for Mulkaundracooracooratarraninna), the remnants of a general store built back in 1925 - the only one of its kind in an area of 181,299 square km. And the Lake Harry Ruins, a former date plantation born in 1897 that was abandoned thanks to ongoing drought. Closer to your end goal of Birdsville you’ll find the Burke and Wills Dig Tree. The Durham landmark is a heritage-listed eucalyptus that is said to mark one of the duo’s final campsites - provisions had been buried nearby with instructions on where to dig to find them carved into the tree’s trunk.
You’ll find plenty of places to rest your head during your journey along the Birdsville Track. Many a caravan has made a successful journey along the rugged route, just be sure everything is securely attached. You’ll be able to pull up for a rest at an array of campsites along the way, including a series of bush camps, Clayton Station, Maree Caravan and Campers Park. Mungerannie Hotel also makes for an ideal pit-stop half way thanks to its array of accommodation, as well as its adjoining pub, which serves hearty home-cooked meals in the dining room.
Once you reach Birdsville you’ll find a few more options at your disposal. The Birdsville Caravan Park is nestled alongside the Birdsville Billabong, and ideally located for easy access to the surrounding Simpson Desert. Or find something slightly more sophisticated down the road at the historic Birdsville Hotel, one of the most iconic watering holes in Australia. There are 27 modern units to enjoy, all within an easy stroll of the 1884 sandstone pub, where a beer (or two) is a non-negotiable.
Birdsville is home to a series of much-loved events which tempts travellers from far and wide. Keep an eye out for the return of these annual showcases - they will top off an excellent trip. Like the Birdsville Races, which sees the population swell from 100 to 7000 every September. Or July’s Big Red Bash, the only music festival held in the heart of the Australian Outback.
But aside from these adored events, Birdsville year-round is worth a wander. Sitting in channel country, Birdsville was originally inhabited by the Wangkangurru-Yarluyandi people with Europeans arriving back in 1844 led by Charles Sturt. It’s within arm’s reach of the Simpson Desert, with a visit to the 30-metre-high ‘Big Red’ sand dune on its edge (just 35 km away) a must-do while you’re in town. As is the Birdsville Billabong - an idyllic place to take in the vivid sunset, or simply a chance to cool off from the heat with a swim.
The best time of year to visit the Birdsville Track is between May and September so as to miss the sweltering desert heat.