Road Trip
By Danielle Reckless
If you’re the type of traveller who loves to mingle with the locals, learn about history and immerse yourself in the rich culture of a destination, this is the perfect Queensland road trip for you.
Over five days, journey north from Cairns to discover the region’s rugged natural beauty before arriving in the remote Cape York township of Laura. This little dot on the map hosts the biggest biennial Aboriginal festival in Queensland: Laura Quinkan Indigenous Dance Festival – and it’s one of the most unique experiences you can have.
Back from 7 – 9 July 2023, the three-day camping festival celebrates culture and history, as dance troupes from across Cape York and Torres Strait gather to share stories, history, and unite in dance and song.
You’ll cover some miles to get here – which is half the fun – but the memories made will last a lifetime.
Embarking from Cairns (we recommend spending a few days in the city first, if you have the time), wind your way north along the coastline towards Palm Cove, stretching your legs at lookouts and local beaches en route.
Between exquisite beachfront dining and golden sands to soak on, if you’re blown away by the beauty of Palm Cove and wish to stay the night (or two), here’s how you can do it in style.
Back on the road, take the short drive into the rainforest to Mossman Gorge Cultural Centre, an Indigenous ecotourism hub on the edge of the enchanting Daintree Rainforest. Grab a bite to eat at the Mayi Café, take a look at local Indigenous artwork, and join the guided Ngadiku Dreamtime Walk tour – the absolute best way to explore this sacred land.
The 2.5 hour walks are led by the Kuku Yalanji People, the Traditional Owners of the land. Wandering through the rainforest, you’ll learn about ancient culture and traditions from bush tucker to medicinal plants and ochre painting, and get insight into the connection the Indigenous People have had with this land for thousands of years.
Save time for a dip in the refreshing cool waters of Mossman Gorge before hopping back into the car. Cooktown is just another three hour drive north along the sealed Great Inland Way, though if you’re prepared for a 4WD route, steer your course through Cape Tribulation along The Bloomfield Track. It’s a wild adventure that’ll deliver some of the most spectacular sights in the Wet Tropics – best tackled over a few days to uncover all its hidden beaches, rainforest hiking trails and secret waterfalls.
Rest easy tonight in your choice of Cooktown accommodation – more adventures await tomorrow.
Fuel up for another day of sights and adventures, but before you leave town be sure to stop by Cooktown Museum. Not just a place to learn about local history, the building itself is part of it - once a convent school until the 1930s and it was later occupied by the US military during World War II. This landmark has survived over the years and is now a temple for artefacts collected in the region.
Next, head to Grassy Hill Lookout for views of the lighthouse and out to the Coral Sea - your last ocean view before you start the two-hour trek towards Laura. If you're craving a little more wild beauty along the way, a pit-stop at mighty Trevathan Falls is a must.
It's a good idea to stock up on any more groceries you might need before you leave town, too.
Arrive in Laura and make your way to the Ang-Gnarra Festival Campground - the festival's heartland. You’ll feel the cultural energy immediately; while eager crowds set up camp, traditional performers are practising alongside their elders who are passing on their song and dance knowledge. It’s the ultimate behind the scenes preview of what’s to come over the next three days.
So pick your camp spot and unpack in time to relax and enjoy the open night sky. With campfires alight and stretched across the grounds, camping under the stars feels like an act of community.
If you’re not a fan of camping, you can stay in town at the Laura Motel or the Laura Roadhouse.
For centuries, Laura has been the central meeting place for Cape York’s Indigenous population and is home to some of the most well-preserved rock art in the world. Held on the traditional Bora ground, Laura Quinkan Indigenous Dance Festival continues its role of meeting place as around 1,000 performers from over 20 Indigenous communities come together to celebrate with music, dance, singing and cultural performances. This is Australia’s longest running Indigenous festival – and it shares a rich history dating back millennia.
Be prepared for an event that's sure to move you, and get you moving in celebration too.
Laura Quinkan Indigenous Dance Festival is a cultural force that draws you in with positive energy, love and openness. By day you’ll hear Dreamtime stories around Yarning circles, watch artists weave and create cultural masterpieces and witness Australia’s most authentic Indigenous dance competition. By night you’ll be entertained with more traditional dancing and live contemporary music by Indigenous artists.
The festival is all about the preservation and celebration of Aboriginal culture, a true experience from the Welcome to Country through to the closing ceremony.
A must-do while you’re in Laura is the Quinkan Ancient Rock Art Trail. The rugged landscapes around Laura are home to incredible Indigenous rock art – so significant it’s listed by UNESCO as among the top 10 rock art sites in the world, estimated to be 15,000 – 40,000 years old.
Rock art tours depart from the festival grounds every day, and online bookings are essential (head to the festival website to book.