8 nights under the stars: how to do Big Sky Country

Day 1: Swap bustling Brisbane for the Bunya Mountains

Put 230km between skyscrapers and stars as you head west through Queensland Country towards a 30-million-year-old national park.

The countryside will charm you from the beginning of this road trip, so stop in Toowoomba for a coffee fix and a spin around the historic streets and parklands. There’s so much to do you could easily pause the journey here for a few days, but it’s time to tackle the next stretch of your drive toward Big Sky Country.

The route into the Bunya Mountains sets the scene for what’s to come: winding through rainforest-fringed landscape and climbing into the range, you’ll start to see your first bunya pines tower above the trees, broken by ‘balds’ (natural grasslands) as king parrots flit between the foliage.

Bunya Mountains National Park offers three camping areas. Dandabah campground is a large open space that can cater to campers and trailers (the roads to get here are steep and windy, which may not be suitable for bigger rigs), while Westcott and Burtons Well are walk-in camping only, with sealed carparks nearby for vehicles. If camping’s not your style, book a cosy cottage with Bunya Mountains Accommodation Centre.

As the sky starts to turn pink, make your way to Fisher's Lookout and take in the sunset. Then it’s time to stroll over to Bunya Mountains Tavern, home to mouthwatering meals and a bar that stocks over 100 different whiskies, sourced from around the globe.

Snuggle up by the fire with a wee dram, or take your glass outside and sip under the stars: a glance up at the brightly twinkling heavens will confirm you’ve officially arrived in Big Sky Country.

Day 2: Soak up the serenity of Bunya Mountains National Park

Forget taking down the tent and loading the car: today you’ll stay ensconced in the deep green of The Bunyas, taking time to pause and appreciate its beauty.

Lace up your boots this morning as you discover some of the 40km of walking tracks through the national park. Scenic Circuit Track is one of the most popular, and at just 4km long it offers bang for your buck, taking in Festoon Falls, Pine Gorge lookout, Tim Shea Falls and the iconic strangler fig you can walk through. The 10km Barker Creek Circuit is ideal for those seeking more time in nature, taking between 3 – 4 hours to complete. Be sure to bring binoculars to spot some of the 120 bird species that call the Bunya Mountains home, including king parrots, crimson rosellas and bowerbirds.

Bunya Horse Drawn Tours is another unique way to explore, as a local guide shows you the sights with the help of his Clydesdale horses.

However you decide to spend your day, stop for bunya nut burgers, bunya nut ice cream and other delights at Poppies Cafe.

Return to your campsite (or cottage) tonight, then take a little wander by torchlight to spy ringtail possums and watch red-necked wallabies lazing around the picnic areas.

Day 3: Get a taste of country hospitality in the Western Downs

Today’s destination is the historical town of Miles in the Western Downs, 190km north-west of the Bunya Mountains.

On route, discover Queensland’s legendary country hospitality in Chinchilla, the melon capital of Australia. If you can, time your trip to coincide with the town’s biennial Melon Festival, when melon-skiing, pip-spitting and wild fun takes over the town every second February.

Head west and explore pioneer era buildings at the Miles Historical Village Museum, where replica stores from blacksmiths to coach houses line the street, before wrapping up your day with a classic country pub feast.

Then, pull up for a night of stargazing at Gil Weir, around 4km south of Miles along Condamine Road. Arrive before sunset to take advantage of swimming and fishing – the weir is stocked with Murray cod and golden perch. 

Day 4: Hike through ancient wilderness in Carnarvon Gorge National Park

Wake up and get back on the road for the 142km drive to Roma. Visit on a Tuesday or Thursday to experience the biggest cattle sales in the Southern Hemisphere – over 300,000 cows go under the hammer here each year.

From Roma, put 240km of light-pollution-free sky between you and the towering sandstone structures of Carnarvon Gorge.

On arrival, set up your camp for the night. Carnarvon Gorge Wilderness Lodge offers cabin-style accommodation close to the park entrance, the nearby BIG4 Holiday Park is ideal for caravans, camping and self-contained cabins, while Sandstone Park is the place to pitch your tent with 360 degree views of the escarpment. Make the most of daylight hours by exploring the national park on foot. The short and sweet Nature Trail (1.5km) is a scenic yet concise way to see just what Carnarvon Gorge is about, and dusk is a great time to spot wildlife, including platypus in Carnarvon Creek. If you’re up for something steeper, tackle the steps and ladders to reach Boolimba Bluff for golden hour.

Warning: keen hikers should work an extra day in this Big Sky Country itinerary to truly experience the best Carnarvon Gorge. The 20km return walk to Big Bend will wind you past the most iconic sites in the national park, home to ancient Indigenous rock art galleries and hanging gardens of ferns and moss. If you have the gear, book a walk-in campsite at Big Bend and return along the track the following morning after a stay in the star-studded wilderness.

Day 5:  Relax by the Balonne River

Stretch your legs and fill up on a big breakfast, because today you head south on the five hour, 440km journey to St George – a country town perched on the banks of the Balonne River.

Drop a line in and find out why St George is known as Australia’s inland fishing capital of Queensland, or take a tranquil sunset cruise on the Balonne River. Nature fans, don’t forget your binoculars: more than 230 species of bird call this region home.

Don’t leave without visiting the cellar door of Queensland’s most western winery, Riversands Vineyards. Listen to the stories behind each wine and the colourful characters they’re named after – from the town’s original wine grower Dr Earnest Seidel to a famous WW2 fighter pilot.

Rest your head at Pelican Rest Tourist Park – open to campers, caravanners, and those who prefer a solid roof over their heads.

Day 6: Savour the flavours of the Granite Belt

Set your compass east to find the rocky boulders, freshwater pools and wildflowers of Girraween National Park in the Granite Belt. It might be a 430km drive to get there, but you’ll pass through some of Big Sky Country’s iconic scenery along the way, stopping for a pub lunch in Goondiwindi and silo art photo opportunities in Yelarbon.

Roll into the Granite Belt in the afternoon and mark the end of a long drive day with wine tasting at one of the local vineyards and sampling the best of the region’s paddock to plate food scene.

Camp close to the action with a two-night stay in the national park at Girraween’s Bald Rock Camping Area, where the majority of the walking tracks start. If you’re heading out in winter, pack a few layers as temperatures can dip below freezing. Alternatively, rest your head at one of the region’s most unique accommodations, from luxury glamping to sleeping inside a giant wine barrel, to a chalet where you can contemplate the beauty of Big Sky Country from a private outdoor spa. 

Day 7: Tackle the trails of Girraween National Park

Pull on your hiking boots and spend a full day among Girraween National Park’s network of walking tracks - there are options to suit all fitness levels. Giant granite rocks tower over this otherworldly-looking park, and outdoor lovers can connect to the ancient landscape on treks through untamed wilderness and stunning blankets of wildflowers to reach the park’s famous rock formations. Choose your track here, then return to relax at camp – fresh air doesn’t get any better than this. And if it’s a clear night, this area is home to some of the best stargazing in Big Sky Country.  

Day 8:  Take the scenic route home through apple country and waterfalls

You may be homeward-bound, but you won’t have to look hard for excuses to take your time.  Opt for the scenic route and return to explore the charming streets of Stanthorpe, where you can pick up handcrafted chocolates, sip locally-brewed cider and treat yourself to a slice of apple pie made from scratch, served with generous dollops of fresh cream.

When you’re this close to one of Queensland’s five UNESCO World Heritage Sites, you simply must make the detour. From Stanthorpe, spend an hour following the country road that traces the border, dipping its toes into New South Wales before crossing back into Queensland to meet Queen Mary Falls. Surrounded by the ancient Gondwana Rainforest of Main Range National Park, the 2km Queen Mary Falls Circuit takes most people less than an hour to walk; its gentle descent winding to the bottom of the falls along the Condamine River.

From here it’s an easy drive back to Brisbane, via more waterfalls and Scenic Rim pit stops. The sparkling city lights will greet you - and while it might not offer the Milky Way views of Big Sky Country, there’s plenty more adventures to be had.

Looking for more road trips that’ll cover you in a blanket of stars? Discover these Outback Queensland journeys.