How-to
By Morgan Reardon
For anyone who has spent a day traversing the lush and unruly landscape of the Wet Tropics, you’ll know it’s a place of unparalleled beauty. But when the sun dips below the ancient mountain ranges and the light begins to dim beneath the dense rainforest canopy - something special starts to happen. The stars cover the skies, the frogs and owls harmonise their nightly calls and the magic begins.
To really appreciate the breathtaking beauty that blankets the Cairns & Great Barrier Reef region’s rainforests, you need to experience it at night, which is why we’ve curated the ultimate guide to ensure your jaw stays firmly on the rainforest floor during your visit. From where to stay and eat to the most mind-blowing tours to book, we’ve got pinch-me moments aplenty for you.
Journey deep into the heart of the rainforest after dark, and you’ll find a truly breathtaking scene unfolding before you. Under a silk canopy, lined with glowing chandeliers, is Flames of the Forest. Run by brothers Robert and Gary of the Creek-Nunn family and Kuku Ngoongal clan group, you’ll feast, family-style on a banquet inspired by native ingredients, while journeying through the Kuku Yalanji culture, via storytelling and mesmerising didgeridoo performances and songs.
If one bucket list-worthy dining experience in the dark wasn’t enough, then Mandingalbay Ancient Indigenous Tours – Deadly After Dark should hit the spot. Let the moon illuminate your path as you depart Cairns Marina and cruise through the East Trinity Reserve. After a traditional welcome and smoking ceremony, devour decadent canapes (think: smoked crocodile, seared Queensland scallops and Thai style Kangaroo with green papaya) under a canopy of melaleucas.
Work off your feasts with a moonlit paddle on Australia’s only night canoeing tour with Wallaby Eco Lodge. Along with your guide you’ll glide along Lake Tinaroo, keeping oh so quiet as you try to catch a glimpse of the elusive creatures of the forest upon nightfall. If you prefer to stick to dry land, the Nocturnal Tour at Wildlife Habitat is the perfect place to witness the rainforest’s caretakers wake up and go about their business. On the two-hour tour you’ll join a knowledgeable wildlife keeper exploring the parks, home to the Striped Possum, local pythons, bettongs and frogmouths. Warning: you might be peeking through your fingers come feeding time.
For something truly remarkable, head to Paronella Park at dusk. Spread out over five lush hectares surrounding Mena Creek Falls, you’ll find an enchanting Spanish-style stone castle, winding tunnels, moss-covered bridges, and over 7,500 tropical plants and trees. The fairy-tale-like scene is stunning in the day, but come nightfall the park is drenched in coloured lights casting magical shadows and creating a technicolour rainbow. If you can’t get enough, you can even park your caravan here and spend the night with the sound of the rushing waterfall lulling you to sleep.
The most important part of planning your overnight escape to the Wet Tropics is choosing the perfect place to lay your head. For those who are of the eco-conscious persuasion, you’re in luck, with sustainable, green luxury at the forefront here. Thala Beach Nature Reserve is the ideal place to disconnect with life and plug into nature. A former sugar cane plantation, the 58-hectare property has since been turned into a sanctuary for wanderlust-seekers. Perched on a private beach headland, nestled between the Wet Tropics Rainforest and the Great Barrier Reef, it boasts 83 eco-designed bungalows camouflaged amongst the trees. Forget your podcasts and playlists and instead bliss out to the sound of rustling gums, and the resident 50 wallabies hopping through the foliage.
Slip into another world at Rose Gums Wilderness Retreat and Mount Quincan Crater Retreat in the Atherton Tablelands. These romantic escapes will have you living amongst the rainforest canopy with treehouse-like accommodations providing stunning views of the region. In the lush surrounds of Mossman Gorge you’ll find Silky Oaks Lodge. Newly refurbished, you’ll see, feel and touch the wonder of the rainforest within each of the private retreats which range from studios to two-bedroom pavilions. With outdoor showers and bathtubs on your balcony, you’ll be blanketed by the area’s greenery and will fall asleep to the sound of the water cascading below.
If you want to wake up with the rainforest on your doorstep, then book yourself a night or two of bliss in one of Daintree Ecolodge’s 15 bayans (treehouses). Interspersed amongst the native flora, leaving a minimal footprint behind, these eco-conscious digs will see your shoulders dropping inch by inch as soon as you set your eyes on their private waterfall. Escape to seclusion at Daintree Wilderness Lodge and their seven wooden cabins nestled within a Giant Fan Palm gallery. Meander along the elevated boardwalk that snakes deep into the belly of the forest and walk alongside the region’s locals - like the Boyd’s Forest Dragon and Lumholtz tree kangaroos.
Go off the grid and connect with the land at Bedarra Island Resort - one of Cairns’ most eco luxe accommodations. With just ten private villas tucked into 45 hectares of tropical grounds - just a short stroll to the Great Barrier Reef - this secluded spot was designed with solitude seekers in mind.
For something more wallet friendly, the Licuala Lodge, in Mission Beach offers comfy single and double room accommodation in an charming Queenslander Pole home with a cassowary or two known to pop by for a visit. Got a caravan? Check out Daintree Rainforest Village and Lync Haven Rainforest Retreat, Cabins, Camping & Wildlife Experience who offer powered sites with all the amenities you need for your holiday in the richly diverse tropical landscape of the Daintree.
Photo by @ospreysrestaurant
Whether you’re a guest at Thala Beach Nature Reserve or not, dinner at their on-site restaurant Osprey’s is non-negotiable. Sitting pretty on the headland of Oak Beach, the eatery boasts sweeping views of the Coral Sea, so aim to get here just before sunset so you can soak up the sky as it transforms from bruised peach to inky black. With a menu that heroes local produce, much of which is sourced of the resort’s gardens, enjoy flavour bombs like Hervey bay scallop with finger lime and Daintree barramundi with charred green onion and XO sauce.
Keep the culinary journey going over at Silky Oaks Lodge’s Treehouse Restaurant. Perched up in the trees, you’ll spot the resident songbirds flitting between the canopy while you dine on a contemporary modern Australian menu with a hint of Asian influence. Still hungry? This Port Douglas and Cairns Food Trail is always a good idea, in particular be sure to stop by Nautilus Restaurant. Discover another world as you wander along a moodily-lit path that winds its way through Island Point Hil before opening up to a tropical oasis. Dine under a blanket of palm trees and bamboo chandeliers on the outdoor terrace while indulging in a decadent menu inspired by its tropical surroundings - like coral trout ceviche and grilled Moreton Bay bugs with coconut.
When the sun rises, there’s no better way to start your day in the rainforest than having your brekky with the birds at Wildlife Habitat. Kicking off at 8am, head to the Curlew Cafe where your plate will be topped high with eggs, bacon, baked treats, while the sanctuary’s birds will perch on your shoulder and have a yarn. Over at Hartley’s Crocodile Adventures in Cairns you can have your coffee and croissant with a side of Koala cuddles at their Breakfast With The Koalas experience. Overlooking the beautiful lagoon, you’ll tuck into scrambled eggs, hashbrowns and fruit salad while the wildlife keepers will bring their furry mates along for a visit.
Want to extend your stay? Travel in style with this Cairns eco luxury accommodation guide. Bringing the little ones along? Here’s how to explore the Wet Tropics with kids.