Itinerary
By Narelle Bouveng
A tiny North West Queensland outpost etched within a swirl of waterways and salt pans fringing the remote shores of the Gulf of Carpentaria, Moungibi (Burketown) is a truly magical destination. One of Queensland’s most remote frontiers, Moungibi (Burketown) is where Gangalidda and Garawa Traditional Custodians continue to honour, protect and shape country; as they have done for thousands of years. It’s a place where Barramundi always bite (it’s the barramundi capital of Australia after all), while at night, against the pale glowing backdrop of Australia’s largest salt pans, you’ll see more stars in the sky than anywhere else.
This part of Queensland holds a rugged beauty all of its own, so you can easily spend a few weeks here (as many do), but to get you started, we’ve curated the ultimate 4-day itinerary. Bring on the goosebumps.
Yagurli Tours, Cairns & Great Barrier Reef
We weren’t kidding we when said this place is remote. You’ll find it located in the Gulf of Carpentaria, approximately 430km north from Mount Isa and 900km south west from Cairns. If you’re travelling by road, expect one of Australia’s most thrilling road trips. From Cairns, follow the renowned Savannah Way for 900 kms (which currently includes an unsealed section of road from Normanton through to Burketown). If you do want to stay on the bitumen, add 2 hours to the trip by dipping down to Burke & Wills Roadhouse at Four Ways for a refuel and refreshment, before continuing for a further three hours through Gregory Downs to Burketown.
From Brisbane, a 2600km multi-day journey offers the opportunity to make optional stops along the way. Learn the pioneering history of Queensland by travelling through Roma and Longreach, walk in the footsteps of dinosaurs in Winton, indulge in an artesian-fed outback bath in Julia Creek or visit one of Australia’s largest mining communities in Mount Isa, before travelling the final 430km north to Burketown.
Rex Airlines also flies to Burketown, connecting via Mount Isa and Cairns.
Yagurli Tours, Cairns & Great Barrier Reef
To Gangalidda and Garawa Traditional Owners, Moungibi translates to island in recognition of the seasonal ebb and flow of waters that surround this tiny town. During monsoon season, inundation by both rivers and sea, means it does, in fact, tranform into an island. This ever-presence of water leaves behind the largest intact wetlands on the planet; doubling as Australia’s largest salt pans and an intricate, art-like mesh of winding serpentine rivers, rich coastal wetlands and the golden savannah grasslands of gulf country that you simply have to see to believe.
The Marrija 4WD tag-along tour explores these significant sites in and around the town sharing Traditional Owners culture, before venturing onto salt pans and wetlands. You’ll stop to learn about bush tucker on the route, hear about land and wildlife management, plus the importance of traditional ceremonial burning of country before sharing a bush tea beside the Nicholson River.
If you prefer to DIY drive, you’ll need a permit to enter Aboriginal lands, so pick one up at the Burketown Visitor Centre before you start exploring.
Gambumanda Sunset Cruise
For a leisurely afternoon, join the Gambumanda Sunset Cruise at dusk to weave through the molten spangled waterways, spotting crocodiles, brolga and jabiru as you listen to ancient Dreamtime stories told by Gangalidda guides with a glass of wine in hand and a delicious cheese board to graze.
At nightfall, Savannah Lodge’s comfortable and well-appointed cabins are an oasis in the outback fringed by lush, tropical gardens. It’s also home to Poppy Joe’s Bar with a swimming pool providing a welcome reprieve after a day spent exploring.
If you’ve brought your van, Burketown Caravan Park has shaded sites and is centrally located within walking distance to the hotel, restaurants, post office and general store.
Yagurli translates as ‘fish’ in the local Gangalidda language and, as Moungibi (Burketown) is Australia’s barramundi capital, fishing is also one of the region’s most popular activities. Join Yagurli’s Malara Fishing Charter on Gambumanda (Albert River). Led by knowledgeable Gangalidda guides, you can choose between two-hour tours or a full day of fishing, including all gear, refreshments and bait. If you're planning to fish on your own, a fishing permit is required, which you can pick up at the Visitor Centre before your first cast.
Yagurli Tours, Cairns & Great Barrier Reef
For something extra special, take to the skies with Balloon Aloft at dusk from July to September. Through a unique partnership forged with leading Australian Ballooning company Balloon Aloft, pilots join Yagurli Gangalidda guides to share a spectacular hot-air balloon tour gliding above the salt pans at sunset. See the region's exquisite textures bathed in the gulf’s glorious final light show of the day.
Jump on board a scenic flight with Savannah Aviation from Burketown Airport to see just how mesmerising Gulf Country is by day by following the curves of the Albert, Nicholson and Gregory Rivers. Time your visit from September to November to catch a glimpse of the mythical Morning Glory Cloud, a naturally occurring phenomenon that creates mammoth barrel-like clouds that randomly appear in the Gulf of Carpentaria skies and stretch for kilometres.
As the sky darkens, return to the salt pans with Yagurli’s Gangalidda guides to share Yaliya’s stories under a blanket of stars for one of the most stirring celestial experiences imaginable. Purpose-built telescopes offer an awe-inspiring astrological perspective while guides share their unique way of reading between the sky as passed down by their ancestors. (Not currently operating).
Leichardt Falls, Cairns & Great Barrier Reef
The Gulf is an area rich in natural attractions, so give yourself plenty of time to explore around the fringes of Moungibi (Burketown) too. Start your day with a visit to the cascading waters of Leichhardt Falls, located around 70km (a 50-minute drive) from Moungibi’s (Burketown) town centre. At the Leichhardt River stop, wander 200 metres north and you’ll find the main falls and clusters of rapids, encased by rose-hued sands.
Amongst the craggy rock face, you can spy on old Aboriginal grinding grooves and even some fossils. Keep your eyes peeled for the local wildlife too – wallabies and crocodiles have been known to inhabit the area. If you fall in love with the area (likely), Leichhardt Falls Free Camp offers uninterrupted views of the water below and goosebumps-inducing sunsets.
Burke and Will Camp 119
Head towards Normanton to pay a poignant visit to Camp 119 - Burke & Wills northern-most camp site. Located approximately 40 km south-west of Normanton, on the banks of the Little Bynoe River, you’ll find the story of the legendary explorers on a quest to reach the Gulf of Carpentaria from Melbourne. Sign boards share the history while showcasing some of the marks left indicating their proof of life at the time. It’s hard not to be moved by just how close they came.
Round out your stay with a dinner at the Burketown Pub, where you can swap stories with locals, sip a crisp beer and tuck into hearty eats like local grilled barramundi, steak sandwiches, burgers and chicken parmigiana.