Itinerary
By Danielle Reckless
Brisbane might have made headlines this week as one of New York Times ’52 Places to Go in 2024’, but it’s about to steal (and break) the hearts of Netflix viewers around the globe. Bestselling author Trent Dalton’s semi-autobiographical novel Boy Swallows Universe has lifted off the page and onto our screens as a seven-part Netflix series – and this love letter to hope; a brutal yet tender portrayal of human struggle – also feels like a love letter to Brisbane’s working class suburbs, in all its 1980’s grittiness.
Set and filmed in Brisbane and surrounds with the support of Screen Queensland, Boy Swallows Universe is a coming-of-age story that follows 12 year old Eli Bell as he navigates the challenges of his tumultuous upbringing, confronting crime, family secrets, and the magical escapism of storytelling. And while Aussie stars Simon Baker, Phoebe Tonkin and Travis Fimmel bring the heart wrenching story to life, Brisbane feels like a main character, too.
While your experience in the River City is destined to be nothing quite like Eli’s, if you’ve been captivated by the Netflix series, this 48 hour guide to Brisbane uncovers many of the iconic sights and film locations of Boy Swallows Universe.
Exterior view of Brisbane City Hall at night
No spoilers – but let’s begin this 48 hours in Brisbane where Boy Swallows Universe ends, by the city’s heritage-listed Clock Tower. Located at Brisbane City Hall in King George Square, join a free guided clock tower tour (every 15 minutes from 10:15am – 4:45pm) and ride Brisbane’s oldest working cage lift to the top – about 87-metres high. Not only is it a unique view of the city skyline, it’s your chance to relive part of the story – the eighth floor’s giant analogue clock is the very spot where Eli confronts his arch enemy in the novel’s nail-biting finale.
If you have time after the tour, pop into City Hall’s Museum of Brisbane to learn a little more about the River City, or tuck into local history with a cuppa and sweet treat at the Shingle Inn on the ground floor of City Hall – the café first opened in 1936.
It’s time for lunch – and time to jump back to the humble origins of Boy Swallows Universe.
Your first option is to wander to Roma Street Station (next to Roma Street Parkland) and catch the train to Darra, the multicultural suburb where the Bell family live in a modest weatherboard cottage. The town’s Vietnamese roots remain, including three noteworthy eateries: Kim Khanh, Van Vietnamese and the location chosen for one of the series’ scenes, Que Huong Restaurant.
Prefer to stay put in the city? Make your western stop at Brisbane’s eclectic West End neighbourhood. Here, you’ll find no-frills but big flavour Vietnamese eateries Trang and Quan Thanh nearly side-by-side on Hardgrave Road.
Love a crime story? Step into Brisbane’s darker side with local historian Jack Sim on Australia’s longest running crime tours. The two-hour Fortitude Valley walking tour is held every Saturday afternoon, and you’ll learn spine-tingling tales of Brisbane’s illegal brothels, rooftop casinos and scandalous law enforcement transgressions.
Jack Sim is also an expert on infamous Boggo Road Gaol, the high-security prison where real-life inmate Slim Halliday resided. His 1946 escape sparked one of the biggest manhunts in Queensland’s history, though Boy Swallows Universe fans may know Slim best as Eli (and Trent’s) babysitter.
Fiume Rooftop Bar, Howard Smith Wharves, Brisbane
Soak up Brisbane’s swankier side tonight and head to Howard Smith Wharves. The bustling riverside dining precinct is the place to go for knock off drinks and celebrations of all kinds – and while this hotspot wasn’t part of Eli’s world, it’s home to one of author Trent Dalton’s favourite eateries, Cantonese restaurant Stanley.
Exterior view of The Tivoli in Brisbane at night
While you’re close to The Valley, swing by The Tivoli, a much-loved historic live music that has been rocking Brisbane for decades – and was used as a backdrop in the Netflix series. Originally built in 1917, The Tivoli’s art deco features and old-world charm makes in one of Australia’s most beautiful performance spaces, and there’s always something to see – from the country’s best muso’s on tour to cabaret and theatre. Check out what’s on during your visit and grab tickets to a show before you land in Brisbane.
Hotel Indigo Brisbane
“Your end is a dead blue wren.” Gus famously writes in the air to Eli – a moment that sparks curiosity in readers and viewers alike. But did you know the blue wren can now be found in Brisbane’s CBD? Check into Hotel Indigo and you’ll spot a 16-storey mural on its facade, a creative piece by Australian artist Blends, who was inspired by the story. Sitting on the riverfront, boutique Hotel Indigo opened in mid-2022 is jam-packed with original artworks referencing the city's history, people and streetscapes.
And if you fancy a nightcap, some of the city’s best cocktails can be found a short stroll away in Burnett Lane’s hidden haunts, Death & Taxes and Antico.
Shorncliffe Pier, Brisbane
Moreton Bay’s sleepy suburbs also play a role in Boy Swallows Universe – and as the story’s surprisingly loveable ex-con Slim Halliday declares, there’s nothing quite like casting a line off Redcliffe Jetty.
So rise early and take the 30-minute drive north to Redcliffe. The site of Brisbane’s first penal settlement is now a booming coastal community, and famous as the hometown of The Bee Gees. It’s a hive of activity on Sunday mornings when the Redcliffe Markets kick into gear from 8am with farm-fresh produce, artisan goods, craft and more, but there’s so much to do here.
Want to explore like Eli Bell? Hire a scooter or bike at Fun Time Hire and cruise the seafront parade to the old Hornibrook Bridge – it’s a local fishing hotspot and happens to be Eli’s favourite, where he met up with Slim.
Want to get adventurous? Take a break from location scouting and charter a fishing boat out with Brisbane Big Cat, or jump on board Brisbane Whale Watching to come face to face with some of the 40,000 humpback whales that migrate via Moreton Bay annually from July until November.
Moreton Bay’s foreshore is lined with restaurants serving locally-caught seafood, but those who live here know the best stuff comes straight of the trawler and into the kitchen at Tempest. Just steps from the water’s edge, enjoy the sea breeze while tucking into seafood platters: peel a fresh prawn or munch on a Moreton Bay Bug as the sun goes down.
The Sebel Brisbane Margate Beach. Photo by The Sebel Brisbane Margate Beach
Make the most of your day by the bay and check into The Sebel Brisbane Margate Beach, a tranquil retreat that takes advantage of the outdoors and Moreton Bay views with sweeping balconies, and a rooftop bar to kick back at.
King Street Bakery, Brisbane. Photo by King Street Bakery
Back in the city, it’s time for the finale. Eli Bell had his heart set on landing a job with the newspaper team at Queensland’s Courier Mail, and its headquarters still stand in a 1960s orange brick factory in Bowen Hills. And in a beautiful depiction of just how art imitates life, Boy Swallows Universe author and Walkley Award-winning journalist Trent Dalton can be found filing stories here.
Take a peek, then make your way to nearby King Street for a bite to eat – King Street Bakery’s French pastries, breakfast bites and espresso will hit the spot.
Looking for more things to do in Brisbane? From inner city galleries and rooftop bars to spectacular islands a day-trip away, discover the best experiences to add to your visit.