Road Trip
By Laura Walls
Fact: Queensland's Cairns & Great Barrier Reef region is the only place in Australia that’s home to not one but two rich Indigenous cultures. From the Aboriginal First Peoples of the coast and rainforest right up to the Torres Strait Islanders of the far north, this part of our state is steeped in ancient traditions and customs that predate European settlement by many tens of thousands of years.
Get ready for an immersive ancient history lesson as you explore incredible nature, rainforest and reef with this five day road trip experiencing the best Indigenous tours in our tropical north.
Starting out from Townsville, today’s final destination is the tropical seaside town of Mission Beach. But before you hit the road, don’t miss the chance to check out a little of Townsville’s Indigenous (and military) heritage.
Learn about the city’s wartime history and its traditional owners, the Bindal and Wulgurukaba People, at the Jezzine Barracks on the Garabarra headland. Wander the outdoor sculpture gallery, discover works created by local Aboriginal artists and get a sense of the sacred role this place occupies in their culture.
Fuel up with a coffee at local favourite cafe, then it’s time to take the scenic 112km drive north to Ingham for your Mungalla Station tour.
Here, you can try your hand at boomerang-throwing and hear stories about the former cattle ranch’s dark and chequered colonial past – as told by its Traditional Owners, the Ngwaigi people. Then wrap up the day with a traditional kup murri feast and swap yarns around the campfire while your food is cooked in an underground oven of hot embers.
Ready to call it a night? You could just unroll your swag and sleep under the stars at Mungalla Station (there are 10 picturesque campsites to choose from). Or, jump back on the road and head north to Castaways Resort and Spa, Mission Beach.
Photo by @thegingerwanderlust
Waking up in Mission Beach feels like waking up in your own undiscovered paradise. Take a refreshing dip in Castaways’ lap pool or a sunrise stroll along the beach before getting back behind the wheel for the 2 hour drive to Cairns.
If you’re not in a rush, make a detour to spectacular Tully Gorge National Park. Less than an hour west of Mission Beach, the gorge and its surrounding rainforest has great significance for the local Gulngay and Jirrbal peoples - and scenery you won't be able to stop and stare at. Retrace the footsteps of an ancient culture as you follow the path of the thundering Tully River, hike to Tully Gorge lookout, or go for a dip in a natural swimming hole. You could even take in the rushing water views up close, from a whitewater rafting adventure.
From here, it’s a 2.5 hour drive up to Cairns where you can grab dinner at the award-winning Ochre, where your plate will be piled high with Indigenous-inspired flavours, then get some rest at your Cairns accommodation: it’s an early start tomorrow.
Start your day with an early breakfast, then head straight for the Marlin Jetty where your high speed catamaran awaits.
Today you’ll be exploring the Great Barrier Reef through the eyes of a Traditional Owner with Dreamtime Dive & Snorkel. While aboard you’ll witness a live dance performance, hear the Great Barrier Reef creation story and talk to Indigenous Sea Rangers about their people’s connection to the sea - and that’s all before you’ve even put on your snorkel. Dive below and experience the colour and majesty of the reef, with five hours of water activities split between two incredible outer reef locations. Introductory and certified diving and guided snorkel tours are available too.
Don't have sea legs? Swap the reef for the rainforest and head west to the quirky mountain village of Kuranda, home to the Rainforestation Nature Park and Pamagirri Aboriginal Experience. Join a local guide on a journey of discovery that encompasses Dreamtime storytelling, dance performances and ochre anointments. Afterwards, spend an hour or two exploring the art and craft galleries of Kuranda, or hop aboard the Kuranda Scenic Railway – one of the most picturesque rail journeys in the world.
While in Cairns, don’t miss the chance to pick up an original artwork or two: the city is known for its Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander art scene. If you’d rather encounter Aboriginal art in nature, explore the sandstone escarpments of Quinkan Country with Jarramali rock art tours, where ancient rock art is etched into the landscape.
Today’s destination is Port Douglas, a tropical town just an hour’s drive past Cairns. It may be famous for its cafe culture, bohemian boutiques and spectacular sunsets, but behind that pretty exterior lies a place rich in cultural heritage and ancient traditions.
Get to know the ways of the local Kuku Yalanji People, who’ve called this place home for thousands of years, on an immersive foraging tour of its wetlands, beaches and mangroves. The Aboriginal-owned experience takes you to the beaches of Cape Tribulation where you'll learn how to spearfish, forage for pipis, and decode bush medicine as you explore the most significant cultural sites in the Daintree Rainforest - and its significance to the Traditional Custodians.
Tonight, escape into the rainforest once again for Flames of the Forest: an open air dining experience featuring locally-sourced produce and Indigenous flavours, set to the music and storytelling of the Kuku Yalanji.
Get your caffeine fix at Sparrow on Macrossan Street, then take the 20 minute drive north west to reach Mossman Gorge - one of the most enchanting corners of the Daintree.
Visit sacred sites, hear ancient stories and witness a traditional smoking ceremony on a Ngadiku Dreamtime Walk through the gorge. Follow private Indigenous tracks as your Aboriginal guide teaches you about the Kuku Yalanji’s powerful connection to the rainforest. Afterwards, take a cooling dip, sample the native flavours of the bush at the Mossman Gorge Centre’s cafe or support local artists and craftspeople by investing in a piece from the art gallery and shop. If you want to get hands-on, head to nearby Janbal Gallery where local Kuku Yalanji artist Binna Swindley offers an authentic Aboriginal art workshop.
As your final day on the road draws to a close, check in to your eco-friendly treehouse at the Daintree EcoLodge and Spa, and drift off to the soothing sounds of the rainforest.
Not quite ready to return to modern life? Extend your Indigenous road trip by continuing north to Cooktown to explore the legend of Black Mountain National Park or head into the Cape York savannah. For an even bigger challenge, pack your bags and your sense of adventure and embark on a tour of the wild rugged north. Here’s how to do the 1000km journey from Cairns to the very tip of Cape York and the Torres Strait Islands beyond.
Here are even more ways to connect with Indigenous culture in Queensland.