An inside peek at Iris van Herpen: Sculpting the Senses with QAGOMA's Dr Jacinta Giles

When: 29 June – 7 October 2024

Where: Gallery of Modern Art (GOMA), South Bank

Exclusive to Queensland's capital, and described as ‘the most important fashion retrospective ever presented in Brisbane’, why do you think this city is a great fit for the exhibition?

It’s the perfect fit. QAGOMA is continually bringing exclusive-to-Brisbane exhibitions to Queensland and raising the profile of our capital city as a compelling event destination. We’ve also been able to add further depth and richness to the Brisbane iteration of ‘Sculpting the Senses’ through how the exhibition design responds to our beautiful building and with the addition of local artwork content, not least the inclusion of a stunning threshold work by Quandamooka artist, Megan Cope.

It’s also exciting to see other great fashion experiences available in the city at the same time as ‘Iris van Herpen’ – like Jean Paul Gaultier’s Fashion Freak Show that’s part of Brisbane Festival in September.   

The exhibition is so much more than Iris’s incredible pieces. There are inclusions of shadow projections, colourful abstractions and two immersive installations – why was this important to include and how do you think it’s elevated the experience?

There are many reasons why the inclusion of projections, videos, installations, artworks, natural history specimens and cultural artefacts are important to elevating the visitor's experience of ‘Iris van Herpen: Sculpting the Senses’. The first being that they provide insight into the incredible depth and breadth of Iris’s interests and sources of inspiration; enabling visitors to better understand the designer’s working processes.

Secondly, many of these elements bring movement into the exhibition, which is incredibly important to Iris. Although many people describe her creations as ‘sculptures’, Iris refers to them as ‘dancers’, believing that only through movement they are fully realised. Many of these additions are works created by other artists and designers that Iris has collaborated with on her collections, so visitors are able to directly see how Iris has translated their practices into her medium.

Do you have a favourite piece? Or a favourite part of the exhibition?

‘Synaesthesia’ is my favourite thematic chapter of the exhibition.  As a synesthete herself [someone who experiences a blending of senses, where stimulation in one sensory or cognitive pathway leads to involuntary experiences in another pathway, such as seeing colours when hearing music] Iris has been fascinated with how the human brain operates and the illusionary nature of perception.  The dresses and artworks in this room explore ideas of hypnosis, lucid dreaming and hallucinations. 

Alongside garments like Iris’s Hypnosis cape-dress 2019, which blurs the boundaries between body and dress through its kaleidoscopic patterns, visitors will also find incredible QAGOMA Collection works by Kohei Nawa and Yayoi Kusama that also explore these altered states of consciousness.

For anyone who isn’t sure if this exhibition is for them, what would you say to encourage them to visit?

‘Iris van Herpen: Sculpting the Senses’ goes beyond the conventional fashion exhibition. With a combination of traditional craftsmanship and innovative technologies, Iris creates iconic designs that draw inspiration from the depths of the ocean, the mysteries of the universe, the regenerative forms of nature, and our bodies in movement. This exhibition is a real journey into the ideas and influences that inform her thinking. 

We’ve already had so many people visit who aren’t necessarily into fashion or fashion exhibitions, and they’re commenting on social media about how much they are really enjoying their visit; and how the exhibition is about so much more. I believe this is a reflection of the fact that Iris’s interests lie less in fashion, but in how the intersection of art and science can wrestle with the unknown—what exists at the outer limits of our senses and understanding.

Visitors to this exhibition will come from all over Australia. When you’re in Brisbane, do you have a go-to place you recommend?

South Bank is definitely my go-to place. With its pristine parklands, views of the river and city skyline, and multitude of incredible restaurants and bars, it really is a place that encompasses the vibrancy of living in Brisbane.  When you add to this the adjacent Queensland Cultural Centre – comprising of QAGOMA, the State Library of Queensland, Queensland Museum and the Queensland Performing Arts Centre – there is something for everyone in this very accessible and walkable area.

Iris van Herpen: Sculpting the Senses is open until 7 October 2024. Head here for more information about the exhibition, including where to get tickets and special Friday night sessions, when GOMA stays up late.