Guide
By Laura Walls
Queensland’s Gold Coast is world famous - it’s become instant shorthand for surf beaches, theme parks and that iconic jagged skyscraper skyline. But long before the city became a sunkissed metropolis, the Gold Coast was a wild and beautiful land of plenty - a place where one of the world’s oldest living cultures hunted, foraged and lived a peaceful, nomadic existence.
To uncover the true history of the Gold Coast, you’ll need a lot more than a travel guide - a fact no one knows better than the folk at Jellurgal Aboriginal Cultural Centre. Through their daily guided walks of Jellurgal (‘Dreaming’) Mountain in Burleigh Heads National Park, they share the kind of secret knowledge that you won’t find in mainstream Aussie history books. This is the Gold Coast as you’ve never seen it before.
Let’s be clear: this isn’t your typical sightseeing tour. Yes, the landscape and views are spectacular - you’re in Queensland after all - but the Jellurgal Walkabout experience invites you to explore your connection with nature on a much deeper level. Prepare to tread the same path as the ancient ones and learn to see the land through older, wiser eyes.
Over the course of two hours, you’ll be schooled in the history, stories and customs of the Yugambeh people as you trek up to the pinnacle of Jellurgal Mountain and back again.
You’ll listen to Creation Stories passed down over countless generations, observe sacred rituals and traditions honed over thousands of years and share in secret wisdom bequeathed by the Yugambeh’s resourceful ancestors.
At the end of your hike, you can even cleanse your spirit in an Aboriginal smoking ceremony. This widely-practiced ritual involves burning the wet leaves of native plants in a small wooden dish, then inviting people to walk through the smoke to cleanse themselves of bad spirits.
Jellurgal is the Gold Coast’s only dedicated Aboriginal cultural centre and is fully owned and operated by the local Aboriginal community. Anthony Cora, Jellurgal’s Cultural Promotions Officer, is a Minjungbal man who hails from the southern end of the Gold Coast. He explains how the region is made up of nine different tribal groups: “I’m part of the Yugambeh language group, which starts in the Tweed River in the south, extends to the Logan River in the north and stretches past Beaudesert to the west. The clan where Jellurgal is based is known as the Kombamerri people.
For Anthony, introducing people to his way of life is one of the most fulfilling parts of his job. “I like being the first point of contact that people have with Aboriginal culture,” he said. “All I want is for them to walk away with a deeper respect for and understanding of what our culture is all about.”
Walking in the footsteps of the First Australians will leave you with more than just great memories and amazing holiday snaps. Here are a few other things you can expect to take away from your experience.
1. You’ll see the world differently. As your perception changes, everything you encounter takes on new meaning. With your Indigenous guide leading the way, geological formations take on new shapes as you learn age-old Creation Stories. The foliage ceases to be just scenery and instead becomes materials with which to make hunting tools and bush remedies. A pile of discarded shells reveals evidence of a thousand-year old feast. Small insects transform from a mild nuisance into a mid-morning snack.
2. You’ll learn to slow down and observe your surroundings. This experience will teach you how to pause and listen to nature - because in those moments of peace and silence live moments of discovery and wonder. If you know where (and how and when) to look, you’ll spot wild koalas in the trees, sea eagles circling above and green sea turtles bobbing on the waves below.
3. You’ll be humbled by the scope of history. Standing on sacred sites that date back over 4000 years while listening to stories that have been around for even longer is a surefire way to put life into perspective.
4. You’ll be reminded of why humans love stories. The Yugambeh are accomplished storytellers - with a back catalogue to rival even the most famous published authors. This is storytelling with a purpose: each tale makes sense of the surrounding environment or teaches the listener a lesson. The stories are rich, colourful and always captivating - from Gwonda, a hunter who came back as a dolphin to help the Yugambeh fish, to Jabreen, a honey-covered giant who dove into the sea to cleanse himself only to crystallise into the boulders around Burleigh foreshore.
Jellurgal Aboriginal Cultural Centre is located on the Gold Coast Highway in Burleigh Heads. The best way to get there is by car. If you’re visiting from Brisbane, it’s less than an hour and a half’s drive south down the Pacific Highway. From Coolangatta and northern New South Wales, head north on the Pacific and take the Burleigh Heads exit.
While much of the path is in shade, at times you’ll be walking along stretches of the Headland that aren’t under cover, so bring a hat, shirt with sleeves and some sunscreen. Don’t forget to pack plenty of fresh drinking water too - you’re going to need it. Last but definitely not least, bring a camera or smartphone to capture the tour highlights.
The Gold Coast is blessed with spectacular year round weather, so you’re pretty much spoilt for choice. Jellurgal run trips all year round - but if you want to avoid the heat, the best time to visit is during March to October, when the weather is less humid.
Kids aged 6 or under, people with limited mobility, and those with below average fitness levels may find the full hike a little too arduous, especially during the summer months (the standard tour isn’t suitable for pushchairs either). But if you don’t mind getting a sweat on and enjoy bush-walking, you’ll be fine with the gentle trek up to the top of the headland as there are plenty of stops along the way.
For those who don’t fall in that category, there’s an alternative trail, called the Oceanview Track. This is a 'Grade 2' walk, meaning that the track is a hardened surface with gentle hill sections and occasional steps. No bushwalking experience is required and wheelchair assisted and pram assisted access is possible.
Inspired to discover more of Indigenous Queensland? Check out this list of unmissable Indigenous food experiences or try this five day itinerary on for size.